Description

Muzzerone is another Italian historic crag, very close to the beautiful city of La Spezia. The crag is characterized by beautiful limestone walls and an amazing view, as all the sectors are just above Tirreno sea. We can assure you that your climbing experience and your photos will be incredible!
Muzzerone has over 200 routes from 4 to 7c, which are generally technical on grey walls full of cracks. There are also some overhanging lines with tufas by sector Polveriera.
The crag is quite aged and some lines have not the best protections. But do not worry, most of the routes have been recently re-bolted!
Sectors have generally comfortable bases, but their access is not always children friendly.

Parete centrale is very easy to reach, it is good for children and families thanks to the huge amount of routes of all difficulties. It was the first rock face to be discovered and it is the most frequented and famous. Some routes are a bit polished but still nice, especially during sunny winter days. The walls are not overhanging, but they dry very quickly after the rain.
Cava degli anelli is a small sector on the way to Parete delle meraviglie. It offers few new and short lines equipped with glue-in bolts.
Just after Cava degli anelli you can find Miss sector (attached to Parete delle Meraviglie), a slightly overhanging wall in the shade with powerful starts. The climbing here it is good also during the Summer. Pay attention to some aged routes.
Parete delle meraviglie is the second most frequented wall of Muzzerone, due to the nice routes around fifth and sixth grade. The area is quiet and comfortable and there are also some short multi-pitch lines.
Poveriera is located on the right side of Parete delle meraviglie and features a beautiful wall with top quality rock. It serves good climbers who juggle on 6a/6b lines.
As said previously, Muzzerone has also an overhanging sector with athletic lines on tufas and orange rock. It is called Polveriera and it was recently re-bolted. The best period of the year to climb by Poveriera and Polveriera is Winter.
Cajenna is located inside a delightful natural amphitheatre of beautiful rock. The base is a comfortable ledge, not exposed to the wind. The approach is not good for children, all the routes were recently re-bolted.

If you want to spend a beautiful holiday by the sea, Muzzerone can be a really good choice.
You will discover La Spezia and Portovenere, which are part of the most beautiful section of the Ligurian Riviera. This gulf is called “Golfo dei Poeti”, appellation born from the love that great writers and poets have shown for this land. The steep cliffs, the natural beauty of the thick pine forests, the romantic shores and the picturesque villages perched on the rock will enchants you.
If Golfo dei Poeti and Muzzerone climbing are not enough, continue your travel and enter the incredible scenario of “Cinque Terre”, name of the area grouping the five villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso.
The UNESCO Committee has considered Portovenere and Cinque Terre a World Heritage Site for the extraordinary relationship between the nature treasures and man.

History

The first sector to be equipped was Parete Centrale. The work started during the 70s by the merchant navy special forces. In the next years Muzzerone has gained prestige and became very famous in Italy, thanks to the effort of local climbers who continued to set up new lines.
Nowadays the crag offer a great amount of routes and most of them have been re-bolted. You can still find old bolts on the wall, just skip them and use the new ones.