Mikri Varasova

Mikri Varasova (Greek for “Little Varasova”) is a crag name devised by climbers to point out the apparent resemblance of the rock to that of Varasova, one of the most important seaside climbing destinations in Greece. Although in terms of scale it’s only a miniature of the real Varasova, in terms of quality, variety and aesthetics the place holds many pleasant surprises to the visitor.

Mikri Varasova has two main sectors but there are also a few climbs and open projects spread around on adjacent faces. The style of climbing is considerably different from one sector to the other. The left side of the crag is a slightly overhanging wall with short dynamic routes and pumpy moves on pockets. The right hand side is a beautiful 30m clean vertical slab with small razor sharp pockets and crimps that calls for delicate climbing, fingery extravaganza and in some cases a cool head.

Provided the skies are clear the place is warm and pleasant to climb even in very low temperatures. On the other hand, climbing during the summer months is nearly impossible as the rocks are scorched by the sun after 11:00 am.

All but one route in Mikri Varasova are fully equipped and only a 60m rope and quickdraws are required to repeat them. Despite recent rebolting, bolt placement in some of the old routes remains “old school”. Take a step back and use your good judgment to avoid decking.

Due to its proximity to one of the most well known hiking trails in Athens area - the trail to Pana’s Cave - it is very possible that the location and whereabouts of Mikri Varasova where known to nature lovers before the 1990s. However, the discovery of the crag climbing-wise is credited to D. Titopoulos, P. Bailey and M. Zervas who climbed the first boulder problems here back in 1992. Four years later N. Voutyropoulos and P. Bailey opened “Dio Filoi” and “Treli Giagia” marking the start of the sport climbing era on Mikri Varasova. In the following months, the crag classics “Stavrakas” and “Parthena ke Diavolos” were established by the aforementioned.

The arrival of D. Stravogenis and S. Moutzouvis in 2001 mark the opening of 27 routes, making the crag what it is today. Following the activity of D. Stravogenis and S. Moutzouvis , D. Titopoulos, and other climbers established new routes. In 2010-2011 D. Tsitsikas rebolted some of the existing lines and in 2012 D. Stravogenis completed the crag maintenance.