Description

Water-polished and compact sea cliff of very high quality located near Mickrums brygga (jetty). The routes are generally between 10-15 meters high and there are both naturally protected routes and completely bolted ones. The wall goes from slightly under vertical to fairly overhanging sections. Lowering anchors are only available where it is needed to get down, otherwise you have to use trees. There are also some extra bolts at the beginning of most routes. If you have access to a boat, a visit is highly recommended as it is easy to moor the boat in the old mooring rings or in the bolts. All routes in the overhang can be reached with the help of an anchor at the top.

It is not allowed to drive on the road after Muskö canal that leads to the cliff, parking must be done at Mickrums brygga! The crag is not on a private plot and you do not have to cross plots to get to the wall, but if you come on foot it is good if you keep a low profile until you have rappelled down, then you can not be heard or seen up to the houses above. If you come by boat and want to go up the top, it is most appropriate to moor the boat on the left side where there is a less steep section, and then follow the grass ramp up to the top. The less steep routes can be partly overgrown with lava, but the steeper routes stay clean.

Environment: West and open. Cooler in spring and on windy days.

Mickrum

The area is access sensitive!

Directions: Drive Nynäsvägen (73) south towards Nynäshamn. Turn off towards Muskö (signposted) after about 40 km. Follow Muskövägen through the tunnel and continue for about 9 km. Then turn left onto Mickrumsvägen. After 2 km you arrive at Mickrums bridge where you park (it is not allowed to drive on the road after Muskö canal that leads to the cliff). Then walk according to the map (one km). When the road ends at a turning plane, take the path to the left of the stairs. The ladder leads away towards the cliff edge.

Communications: Commuter train to Ösmo station. Change to bus 849 towards Muskö. Get off at Mickrum's jetty.