Description

This is a city crag situated next to a bird watching tower and old wartime cannons and fortifications. This crag can be considered as a nice place to start climbing outdoors because of its safe landings and relatively easy and short routes. For highballs and higher grades, check out the spectacular Koivusaari just 1,5 km west from this crag!

Rock and drying off:

Rock is mostly granite and gneiss of decent quality. After rain, sector Main Event is super quick to dry due to exposure to sun and wind. Poikkarimuuri trickles and dries off slowly due to grassy top. Aki Poliz dries fast in the sun in the morning and noon, but is in the shadow from afternoon onwards.

Climbing style:

The location is child friendly with relatively low 2-4 meter high boulders and mostly even landing. However, the top of Aki Poliz sector can be a bit tricky even for adults. Harder routes are mostly found at Main Event. Climbing style is mostly crimpy and balancy.

During the last few years a lot of new routes have been added, some of which are quite nice, but there are also many more or less contrived variations and eliminates.

Area is shared with people including families with even young kids walking, biking, bird watching and just playing around, so let's ensure that we all fit nicely to this nice outdoor spot. Due to its central location, beware of occasional broken glass left behind.

History

First lines having been drawn in 2011, first ascentionists are likely first kids populating this island and their names forgotten by history already.

Routes on Myllykallio
53 boulder 33 Likes
Premium topo by Team Myllykallio
Jonas Broo
from Helsinki
Sari Somerkallio
from Helsinki
Sara Somerkallio
from Helsinki, Finland