Magic Wood
Little Schmetterling
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The area is access sensitive!
SLEEPING/CAMPING:
Wild camping is forbidden. There's Bodhi camping area just before the village and Bodhi guest house in front of the Edelweiss Restaurant, left side when you enter Ausserferrera.
To stay overnight in a camper or van is JUST alowed on Bodhi Camping (currently 16,.- CHF)They JUST take CHF or card! First come, first serve.
You can stay at the dam at valle di lei, which is 14 km up the valley or up in Juf at 2100m Alt which is 22 km at the end of the valley. In Andeer, at the Motorhighway 13, is another Camping, 6 km from Magic Wood.
One other option is to stay in the Generoso Guesthouse in Ausserferrera. They offer 2 bed and 4 bed rooms, between 35,- and 50,- CHF/person/night.
The Bodhi Camping, the Generoso Guesthouse and the Edelweiss Restaurant are all run from the same Family.
Fam. Saluz
https://www.valferrera.com/bodhi-camping
https://www.valferrera.com/
TO STAY OVERNIGHT SOMEWHERE IN THE VALLEY IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN AND WILL BE FINED WITH UP TO 1000,- CHF!!!
PARKING/ACCESS TO BOULDERS:
There are two bridges. One from the Bodhi camping and one from Ausserferrera. If you are not a Guest at Bodhi Camping or Generoso they will charge 5,- CHF for parking at the Campside or right before the camp (coming from the Highway).
Parking at the Edelweiss Generoso in Edelweiss is just for gusts of the guesthouse or Restaurant , please respect that. There is another parking at the end of the village (again coming from the Highway) which is currently for free.
BOULDERING AREA:
Bouldering is allowed only on the marked area. Please check detailed map of the allowed area from the camping ground notice board or guide books.
LANDING:
Many landings are rough. Often you'll need many crashpads and spotters. More or less all boulders are placed on a hillside, which is extremly rocky.
GENERAL ACCESS INFORMATION:
Magic Wood in general is a very sensitiv area. Like we mentioned before: Climbing is just allowed within the well known area (meaning in the local Guidebokk from Sector Camel to Bruno Block. Within this are you can climb all year around,
BUT!!!!
MW is well known around the globe. This awesome combination of a very centered concentration of boulders, the number of quality lines, the number of hard problems, the rock quality in general and last but not least the easy access if you stay on the capside or in Ausserferrera makes it a number climbing destination even for people from oversea. And yes all of them have an impact, mostly in a bad way tbh. So pls stay on the main pathes (pathe will be added soon), dont do any short cut and pls respect marked areas which are in renaturation.
But thats just one part of the "Problem"
The relationship between the community and the running Company from the Campside isnt the best.
I guess we all want that Magic Wood is still accessable in the future so repect the rules on the Campside as well in the woods.
And ofc pls use the Restrooms at the Campside or in the Edelweiss Restaurant.
Thanks
Try hard, climb smart
Cleanclimbcelebrate