Las Encantadas

An easy-access classic El Chorro limestone crag facing south. Las Encantadas is the most enjoyable for 7a-7b climbers as the crag presents some of the El Chorro top routes in these grades, including classics like "Dura vida de un frekee" 7a, "Redders" 7a, "Sara" 7a+, "Gros Rouge" 7b and "Generación limite" 7b+. While Las Encantadas excels in the low sevens you'll discover a wide range of routes from 6a to 8b, catering to most skill levels.

Within a few minutes walking distance to the right of Encantadas, you will find the easier cliffs of Olivitos, Cocina Caliente, Bedees and Los Perros for those looking for nice and easier routes (fives and low sixes). Las Encantadas is the main crag close to accomodations in El Chorro, within only a five-to-fifteen minute walk from the Olive Branch, Finca la Campana and La Almona Chica.

🧗‍♀️ The style of climbing is pocket and jug pulling on mainly vertical walls with occasional overhanging sections. The more popular and the lower grade routes can be quite polished. Being quite an old school crag, a couple of routes have chipped holds - some even have the odd bolt-on hold! However, recent bolting efforts have introduced routes that are less polished.

❄️ Colder conditions are the most favorable for climbing in Las Encantadas.
☀️ The walls face south and are mostly bathed in sunlight.
🌧 Dries quickly after rain.

👶 While the walk from the parking area is short, families with children should be aware that the approach involves a narrow path, and the upper sector requires a few moves of scrambling.

Sectors:
- Left: Routes from 4+ to 6c+, mainly in the 6a-6b range. Routes to the right of the groove in the center tend to be longer, less polished, and of higher quality.
- Center: Mainly 6c-8b. This sector houses the hardest routes of the crag and provides some shade for the belayer.
- Upper: Mainly 6c-8a. The best routes in the 7a grade reside in this part of the crag. There is no shade for belayers.

🔩 The crag was first bolted in the 1980s and early 1990s. Situated on private land, it faced some access challenges in the early '90s with the dissatisfied land owner took issue with the misbehaving crowds, leading to the chopping of the first bolts of most of the routes. Fortunately, these routes have since since been rebolted and the current access situation is favorable. However, it's essential to be considerate of the neighboring houses:
🔇 keep the noise down
🐕 don't bring dogs
👣 choose your path to avoid the houses close-by.

⚒ During the crag's early establishment, the ethics of that era allowed for the improvement or chipping of holds. Consequently, some routes exhibit imperfections resulting from this practice. Remarkably, one route, "Kit Grimpe" 7c, even features a bolt-on hold, serving as a testament to the evolving climbing ethics.

🛠 In recent years, most routes have been at least partially rebolted by the El Chorro Bolting Team. In case you encounter routes in need of rebolting, leave a request to the El Chorro Bolting Team in route comments or for instance in the Olive Branch B&B.