Description

>>>WARNING (22-10-2017) - Repeated Car Breaks on the Crag Parking- See Access Info<<<

Lagada (Λαγκάδα) is a must-visit crag for any Greek climbing road trip and inarguably one of the best sport crags in Greece to escape the summer heat. Located in a idyllic valley on the heart of Taygetus mountain at 800m Lagada has a certain alpine feel. The place worth’s a visit even if you are not a climber. The scenery is excellent and so is the climbing.

Climbing has a bit of everything from low beginner grades to hardcore 8-figures on tufa caves. The rock is excellent quality limestone ranging from compact grey slabs to blue vertical faces and orange tufa ornate ceilings.

Sector Aloni is the most popular sector with numerous classic quality routes mostly on blue/red walls with pockets and tufas. Sector Tourlitsa is the most impressive one dominated by the big cave with challenging upper grade tufa lines but also a grey wall with long easy lines for everyone. Sector Splithari (Potami) is located on the riverbed and offers numerous quality 35m mid grade routes. Sectro Tourlitsa and Stani are of inferior quality to the rest of the crag and are seldom (if ever) visited.

Lagada is located near the town of Sparta in the heart of the Peloponnese. Therefore a visit to Lagada can be easily combined with a visit to other excellent Peloponnesian crags like Leonidio, Nedousa and Kyparissi.

Accommodation: The small hut conveniently built by the Alpine club of Sparta on main Sector Aloni is open year round and climbers are welcome to use it. Please leave it in good condition and close the doors at all times since rodents eager to share your company and food have been reported. Apart from the hut, there is space to pitch a few tents on sector Aloni and also next to the riverbed on sector Splithari. For camper vans there is a big parking space just below the main sectors (Aloni and Tourlitsa) and also a smaller parking spot right below the routes of sector Stani (car belay).

Rest Days/ Other activities: The nearby town of Sparta has a small archeological site. The medieval castle of Mystras (within 30 min drive from the crag) is a better bet for a cultural rest day. For mountain activities, Taygetus Mt has a extensive network of walking trails offering walks that range from short strolls to 2-3 days alpine crossings.

Lagada

The area is access sensitive!

>>>Summer 2022 Update: Below described security issues still persist

>>>WARNING (22-10-2017) - Repeated Car Breaks on the Crag Parking-<<<
As of today there has been numerous cases of car breaks in the parking of the crag in the recent weeks. Police has been notified and action is being taken. But meanwhile it might be a safer choice to park to the nearby village of Trypi and walk the 6 km to the crag or take the local bus.
Parking next to Potami sector is OK if you climb at Potami sector but don't leave the car unattended!

Access:
From the town of Sparta drive following signs towards Mystras and the village of Trypi. After the village of Trypi drive for approximately 6,3 km till you see the sign “Climbing Park of Lagada”. The parking is a further 500m ahead on your left hand. Park here for sectors Aloni, Petsanes and Touritsa.

For sector Aloni and sector Petsanes cross the road on foot and get on footpath which goes uphill and leads you to sector Aloni on 2-3 min. For sector Petsanes continue from sector Aloni for another 2-10min to the various walls towards the big cave.

For sector Toulritsa start from the parking lot and continue on foot on the side of the road (direction towards Kalamata/ moving away from Spara). After 100m, find break on the wooden fence and continue downhill on footpath. Cross the riverbed to find the first routes.

For sector Stani drive a further 350m from the parking spot and park on open spot on the right side of the road right below the routes.

For sector Splithari (Potami) drive a further 350m from the parking spot and turn left on descending concrete road. The road is not visible from the asphalt, but you can recognise the spot by the wooden electricity poles right over it. At the end of the descent, the road pass near a goat pen. After that continue for another 200m until you see sector Splithari on your left.