Kuusikko

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Kuusikko is a new crag located in Vantaa. It has multiple boulders and walls located within it's premises, with the amount of boulder problems making it the biggest in Vantaa.

The crag basically consists of three separate areas with varying rock type, quality and climbing style. The areas are: Untipakka Forest, Untipakka Suburb and Variskallio. Most get dry a day or two after the rain, and most sectors are quite shady due to forest coverage. You can climb most of the problems here with a single pad, but some require another one and a spotter.

There is climbing for almost every one here. A lot of really easy boulders great for beginners make this crag a perfect place to start doing bouldering. Most of the problems are in the 3-6A+ range, so there is a lot to climb for intermediate climbers as well. There are a few upper font 6's in Kuusikko as well, some are of really good quality. Sadly no sevens or harder yet, but the Mörkö boulder has proven itself multiple times as to always harbor within it a tougher project.

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Untipakka Forest is where most of the quality climbing is. There are four boulders and a low wall really close to each other. The boulders are very high quality and mostly skin friendly paragneiss, and offer all kinds of climbing, from easy slabs to tough and powerful overhanging problems.

Mörkö and Hautaröykkiö have the best problems. Kivicasa has some unique cave climbing, and Murkkukivi is a slabby boulder with child friendly problems. Kuusimuuri is a small wall with easy warm-up boulders. The rocks are well shaded, but the wall is out in the sun. You need two pads for some routes on Mörkö and Hautaröykkiö.

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Untipakka Suburb is formed from three small walls. Triple Crown, which houses the best quality of rock and problems, is sunny and a joy to climb at. Muusikuuri is a tallish and quite long sector with some decent problems, but the rock quality deducts from the enjoyment. It has some decent shade. Välilude is a small wall barely worth mentioning, as it only has a few very easy routes.

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The Variskallio area is located in a forest south from the other two. It has two walls and a lowball boulder. Variskallio (Sector) is a long granite wall, that is 5,5m tall at it's highest point. Rock quality is sharp, shade is decent. Karisvallio is a small sector that branches off of Variskallio and has a few problems. Marjamätäs is a lowball boulder located a bit east from the cliff face sectors.

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As for recommendations for the best problems by grades:

3-3+:
Donno, Donno 2 (TBH), Delisius Eg

4-4+:
One With The Rock, Kukkakärpänen, Pork Crackling, Go With The Rhythm

5:
Big Hold Boy, Aid & A Betting, Quintriplet

5+:
Battle of The Bulge, Squigeli, Small Kitten Status, Laid back crack user

6A:
Gneisseli, Muusikuuri, Holy Moly Guacamole, Pinch Perfect, Kivicasa, Cave Johnson, Corn, Quis Gelit?

6A+:
Mörkö ★★★, Töpörtyü, Aperture Lemon Party, Daddy Long Licks, Boinkka

6B:
Q-Sicko, Big Dog Status, Northwest Passage

6C:
Hautaröykkiö ★★★, Laddy Dong Dicks

Discovered by Asikainen in late winter of 2023. Development began late April 2024, with the first routes being made by Asikainen, Carpark and Virtala. Visiting friends of the group climbed some routes. While most haven't set any FA's, there are exceptions to this, those being:

Tornikoski, who created most of the routes on the sector Kuusimuuri,

McGuire, who created Northwest Passage 6B, Triple Crown 6A, and multiple FA's in Variskallio including Gone In 300 Seconds,

Tran, who put up some boulders on Murkkukivi & Variskallio, like Delisius Eg 3, Kukkakärpänen 4+ and Ontto Rappunen sit 5.

and Vainio, who climbed the currently hardest boulder of the crag (The Penguin, 6C+/7A),

The crag was in a more or less finished state in mid July of 2024, and thus set to be published.