This crag might be one of the most important one in the northern part of the northern Frankenjura. You get all kind of climbing styles in every grade in quite a small area. Best thing is, you can climb here actually the hole year through. And due to the different facing directions of the sectors you might have big chances to find dry rock even if it's been raining for days. especially "Rote Wand" dries quite fast because it's relatively exponated and south-west facing.
They climbed in this valley already 100 years ago, so are the routes. Scary rare protected routes which get you on top of the towers and crags on their easiest and most logical way. But these routes are just a few compared to the well protected sport climbing routes.
At "Diebesloch" you can fly high above the valley through 45° overhangs on big gym like jugs. Probably it's the only crag where you can tick those steep routes in relatively low grades (7b/c).
The routes at "Roter Mönch" are a little more alpine touched. You climb about 30 meters on buttresses, chimneys or dihedrals in lower grades.
"Rolandfels" offers you the whole variety of climbing but slabs. On the front faced wall you mainly get long vertical climbing in 6th french grade on perfect pockets. The more you go to the back wall on the right the steeper and harder the routes will be. Climbing on steep walls on tiny crimps dominates the style.
The missing slabs in low grades can be found at "Rote Wand". One of the highlights here is the tower on the left part of this sector. Doesn't matter what you are looking for. Balancy climbs on arêtes overhanging fist jam cracks, long traditional journeys or just wonderful vertical face climbing. You'll get it up to 10-/8a.
Goodies
easy:
Alte Rotwand, Reinhard Karl Gedenkweg, Enzianriss,
medium:
Coburger Weg, Natz Bramslinger, Stößerkante, Ganz schön luftig, in Liebe für Gundi, John Lennon, International Bold Conspiracy, Knupper Gedenkweg, Gorecki, Quergang, die Vollendung, Ronaldo
hard:
Kyrill, Beavis & Butthead, Sledgehammer, Respect, Equipe Tricolore
