Hooperinvuori is a true diamond in Kustavi. It may lose some rating because of the rock quality, but wins a lot with accessibility, compact size, 17-meter high main wall and beautiful scenery. At spring the surrounding nature will wake up and dress in pink as the hepaticas mix their colour palette from the indegrients of the calcium-rich, alkali-based soil and grow pink flowers. Locating by the meadows and Salminiitunlahti bay, Hooperinvuori offers the best of Kustavi climbing: rest for the soul and savage for the body.
After nourishing yourself with infamous doughnuts of Kustavin Talouskauppa, it's easy to arrive at Hooperinvuori to climb one of the classics, "Isi Rider", for example. If you want to try something else during the same day, the scenery Salminiituntie road will take you to Rahi and Hopiavuori. The rock quality in Hooperinvuori is mostly ok, but there is also quite a few routes with loose rock so wearing a helmet is always advisable when belaying. There are no bolted achors, so setting up a toprope is mostly not very convenient. Despite that, many of the routes at the crag can be counted as top-100 Southwest Finland classics that you must do before you die.
https://www.jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/hooperinvuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html