Description

Hooperinvuori is a true diamond in Kustavi. It may lose some rating because of the rock quality, but wins a lot with accessibility, compact size, 17-meter high main wall and beautiful scenery. At spring the surrounding nature will wake up and dress in pink as the hepaticas mix their colour palette from the indegrients of the calcium-rich, alkali-based soil and grow pink flowers. Locating by the meadows and Salminiitunlahti bay, Hooperinvuori offers the best of Kustavi climbing: rest for the soul and savage for the body.

After nourishing yourself with infamous doughnuts of Kustavin Talouskauppa, it's easy to arrive at Hooperinvuori to climb one of the classics, "Isi Rider", for example. If you want to try something else during the same day, the scenery Salminiituntie road will take you to Rahi and Hopiavuori. The rock quality in Hooperinvuori is mostly ok, but there is also quite a few routes with loose rock so wearing a helmet is always advisable when belaying. There are no bolted achors, so setting up a toprope is mostly not very convenient. Despite that, many of the routes at the crag can be counted as top-100 Southwest Finland classics that you must do before you die.

https://www.jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/hooperinvuori/index.html

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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:

Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html

History

There was some climbing activity at Salminiittu's Hooperinvuori as early as 1960's when Veikko Soinio and Veikko Karhumäki were conquering the crag with hooks and pitons, which are now removed. The crag was found again durding the "Spring of Kustavi" at 2003 by Salminen-Honka-Hallila-Ollia trio and it was stewed 10 years until the routes were established at summer 2013, with the style and ethics of traditional climbing.

Routes on Hooperinvuori
23 trad 9 Likes
Browse topos
Photos
Premium topo by Jammaajat
Juha Suikkala
J. Suikkala
from Raisio
Pasi Raittila
P. Raittila
from Helsinki
Pauli Salminen
P. Salminen
from Finland
See all members
Other Premium topos by Jammaajat 21
Hooperinvuori

Climbing has been limited!

- Do not make the mistake of parking too early; despite the no-go sign, the only permitted parking space is along the Hooperinvuorentie.
- Routes 1 to 5 are calmed, the area to the left of the Suppilovahvero. Climbing is allowed on routes 6-26.
- It is forbidden to open new routes.
- On the right side of the cliff, red anemones grow in the rain sector in the spring. Let them grow.
- Walnut bushes must not be damaged. You drive over the rock from the right through a big path.
- Much of the Hooperinvori area is protected - neither by installing bolts nor by removing vegetation.
- Salmitunlahti takes the sounds to the cottagers, so the unsurpassed shouts of joy and annoyance must be saved elsewhere.
- Dogs must not be kept free or left in the wild.
- Camping is prohibited on or near the rock.

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General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:

- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.

- No littering.

- No campfires.

- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.

- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/

- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.

-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.

-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.

-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.

-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html