Description

Probably the proudest and most famous crag in Bohuslän. As you drive towards the main climbing sectors this is the area you'll see on your right-hand side. It looks imposing and impressive and you'll be able to see straight away that this is an area with world class lines. Big leaning arêtes and huge corner systems correlate their way across the entire buttress. On first appearance, the crag looks pretty steep and can feel intimidating when you first get there. But as you hunt around you'll find that not every line takes a big exposed hanging arête and there are some lower angled climbs.

The venue is actually on private land in the back of a farmer's field. The farmer, Bengt, has become a legend among the Bohuslän climbers for his generosity to let climbers come and park at his farm and use the crag for climbing as and when they like. In 2017 Bengt and his family opened up a campground for climbers.

The two easier angled must do routes here are Mallorol and Chapman, both long and wandering routes up edgy granite slabs. The next classics do start to get a bit steeper, burlier and pumpy, such as Dr Feg, Tor Line and Trampoline. The hardest routes quite often take the striking arêtes, so take your pick!

History

Climbing in the Bohuslän area started at Häller with ascents of 'Kaminen' and 'Den Gamla Klassikern' 1975.
'Tor Line' was climbed 1979 by Jan Liljemark and is still considered a not too easy classic climb.

In the later half of the 90ies Richard Ekehed started visiting Bohuslän and inspired by the ethics of Peak District he established 'Rätt Lätt' and 'Minaret'. This would show to have long lasting effects on the evolution of climbing in the whole area. Bolts where kept to a minimum and others followed.

Häller

The area is access sensitive!

http://access.bergsport.se/haller/

Parking is the main access issue at Häller. Please pay careful attention not to park so that your car gets in the way for the farmer to do his job. Park at the small designated parking lot next to his house and pay the very reasonable 20 SEK fee. If the lot is full please park elsewhere (granted you do it responsibly) – not on his courtyard or on the dirtroad leading up to the farm.

There has been reports about nesting kestrels at Häller, mainly on the ledge above the first pitch of ”Tor line” and the ledge above ”Supertratten”. Act accordingly i.e. do not climb in the vicinity of these ledges in the springtime, March – June. Note that some sectors of the cliff might be entirely closed-down in the spring due to nesting birds.

In general all the standard access issues apply to Häller – therefore keep a low profile. Know that we are climbing on someone else´s property and behave in accordance with this. Leave no trace! If the cliff looks crowded go somewhere else for a couple of hours – there is plenty to choose from!