Description

Gullhamra is located 30 km south of Stockholm and has a slightly overhanging and quite high wall facing west. It offers a large number of well bolted sports routes that are quite long. Nowadays, the big trees in front of the wall have died, leaving the wall free and open for the sun making this crag an excellent choice in early spring or late autumn. This is not a very beautiful crag and the rock is quite crapy in places. However, thanks to the removal of large quantities of loose and broken stone material the end result has become quite acceptable. There are also some ledges here and there which can make the climbing a bit uneven. A helmet is recommended as it still might come to lose some pieces of rock.

Gullhamra is a great choice if you want to onsight many well-bolted climbs that are around 15 to 20 meters high. This is also a very calm and peaceful place without the big crowds and the view out over the landscape is quite nice. The sun strikes the wall at around twelve a clock. During summer it will probably be too hot.
Watch out for the mosquitoes hatched in the adjacent swamp (usually happens in late May/early June), the wild boars are probably more easy to scare away.

History

Even tough Gullhamra is slightly overhanging and quite high the description from the old guidebook was not very positive.The crag was considered not attractive at all as it was compact and rotten. Not at all suitable for placing gear. Maybe that was a good thing because twenty years later Peter Yakubenko and Jan Emdebrant started to develop the crag aiming to put up plenty of bolted sport routes. They did a hell of a job cleaning the rock from loose stones making this crag available for many climbers. Thanks!