Description

🧗
Most routes are not longer than 20 meters and in lower- and mid- grades. Combined with the diversity of climbing this crag is perfect for beginner and advanced level. In the older routes you may need some mobile protection sometimes.

❄️🌼🌞🍂
The most sectors are faced south more or less, so there's a lot of sun what makes it perfect for sunny winter days and early spring. Autumn is best as always...
Only the front sector of "Graischenstein (Graischsäge)" is quite shady and is recommended for summer or autumn.

💧
Due to the exposed location "Bleisteinwände" dries quick when there are no leaves on the trees.. "Graischenstein" takes a bit longer, especially the steeper routes at the front sector.

👶
This crag is excellent for kids. Only exception is the "old Bleisteinwand".

🍽🍻🛌
Next Camping is in "Betzenstein". Further accommodations are located in any village around, just pick one that's not occupied. In "Bärenfels" you get good food. Bigger shopping facilities are available in "Ottenhof" or "Pottenstein"

🏊
If you need any climbing related stuff, go to "Rock Store" in "Betzenstein".
Swimming pool is in "Betzenstein".

💎 Goodies

super soft
- Adams Rippe
- Blaue Zipfel

soft:
- Balkentoni
- Spirale
- Schweizer Käse
- Evas Bauch
- Boofenwand
- Jubelweg

medium:
- Pralle Bleiwand
- Der Koung
- Flasche leer
- Scharfe Braut
- Graischsäge
- Sissi
- rollender Donner
- Erwin Kohler Gedenkweg
- Direkte Talseite (Nadel)

Graisch

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦅
On this crag climbing at "Bleisteinwände" the very left north facing part is prohibited from 1.January until 30. of July because of breeding birds. Rest is open all year until there are no signs at the wall.

⛔️🦌
Please leave the forest one hour before sunset due to wild life.

🚗
This crag is located in the middle of nowhere but fast accessible from Motorway A9 though. Take exit #46 and drive to "Betzenstein". Go ahead towards "Pottenstein". You'll get to the village "Weidenhüll" after 8.6 km from Motorway. Take the 2nd road left towards "Graisch". After 880 meters you reach the village "Graisch", turn right immediately and park your car after 80 meters at the parking.
Another parking is to your left just before you leave the forest heading towards "Graisch"

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Bleisteinwände:
Take the hiking trail to your left (North-West) for 120 meters. Take the path to your right up the hill. You will pass the first sector immediately. Follow that trail along the base of the sector towards West. The individual sectors are stringed together along that trail.
To get to the furthest sector follow the trail to the end where you find 2 slabs to your right ("linker Weg" & "rechter Weg"). Cross the ridge after that wall and keep right (East). The routes are located at the opposite side of the ridge.

Old Bleisteinwand:
Take the hiking trail to your left (North-West) for a few meters. Just after the road sign take the foot path to your right up the hill. It'll lead you to the crag.

Graischer Nadel:
Take the parking next to the street in the forest (or walk from the other parking). Follow the left forest road facing the forest from parking. You can already see the tower, take a small foot path towards that tower.

Graischenstein:
Take the parking next to the street in the forest (or walk from the other parking). At the opposite side of the road is a trail leading orthogonal into the forest. That trail will take you to the first and second sector of "Graischenstein"