Description

If you're after authentic Welsh woodland bouldering, Clogwyn y Bustach certainly fits the bill. Located in the stunning Gwynant valley, you could easily walk past this secluded yet outstanding venue time and again and not notice much other than the imposing Homage boulder; a travesty for anyone operating in the 7s given the quality on offer here.

Indeed, this venue was until recently only really available to those operating at such lofty levels but with the advent of the New Testament (the 2017 reprint of North Wales Bouldering - a must own) a glut of other surrounding boulders have been developed. However, the Fagin Block remains the main drawer and is certainly where you'll want to be focusing your attention if you are able. Fagin, Bustach Prow and Sick Happy are all very worthwhile lines in a very gym-style of climbing that offers a good (or tough depending on your outlook) introduction to real rock for those more accustomed to pulling on plastic.

The big downside of Bustach is the access and the small patch of woodland is not well maintained, with fallen trees and a broken gate to contend with. Much as with Indiana Jones though, once you have managed to navigate this natural assault course, there are jewels to be found.