Description

This fine, historic crag, nestled amongst the limestone dales of the southern Peak, offers some excellent jamming cracks and friction slabs, as well as the occasional fierce arête. The Gritstone here is unusually rounded and somewhat finer-grained than that found elsewhere in the Peak, requiring both good conditions and sound technique. Although rather neglected (unjustifiably) by climbers in recent years, Black Rocks is very popular with sightseers and day-trippers, as well as local youths looking for a chill place to consume alcohol. This has unfortunately resulted in above average levels of litter below the crag. Climbers are urged to take a plastic bag with them and remove a little every time — let’s set an example...
Conditions and Aspect: Much of the crag faces north, with some bays seeing little or no sun, while other areas face west or northwest. The sunless bays need perfect conditions and even then can still be a little green, while the west-facing walls generally dry out quickly and are very clean. Although relatively low-lying (250m) the hilltop position gives it considerable exposure to strong winds.