Description

Berliner Mauer:
With a short approach, a wide range of grades, especially in the 6s, and afternoon shade, this sector is a great alternative when Sabaton, Muppet Show, or other beginner-friendly crags are too crowded or too hot. While the rock quality is suboptimal in some areas, the variety of climbing styles more than makes up for it.

Kindergarten:
A small, bouldery wall located just to the right of Berliner Mauer.

Golden Dusk:
What you’ll find up here are massive lines on outstanding rock. Most of the routes in the main sector rank among the best in their grade in all of Leonidio. The downside? A steep, thorny approach and a south-facing aspect that can make it tough to catch good conditions.
The cave is a bit of a special case. As with most of Leonidio’s “real” caves, the rock quality isn’t the best but the climbing is still great fun. I also left a ton of fixed draws in place to make things easier for everyone.

X-Mas:
Just a two minute approach, north orientation, plenty of 6 grade routes, and some steep test pieces even in moderate grades make this sector an insider tip for hot days.

Oedipus:
Sure, the approach is substantial but two of Leonidio’s best lines in their respective grades are to be found here. Go see for yourself :-)

Jewellery Box:
Once a local secret, this sector has become a crowd-pleaser for those willing to invest the 40-minute hike.

History

Berliner Mauer
During the first international climbers meeting in Leonidio, widely considered the town’s first climbing festival, around New Year 2013/14, a group of Berlin-based climbers began equipping this wall. Every few years, Christian added new routes to the sector, gradually filling in the gaps between the existing lines.

Kindergarten was first developed by two traveling Czechs in 2013.

Golden Dusk was established by two Austrian travelers, Bene and Layla, during the winter of 2014. They were also the first to tell me about Leonidio.

X-Mas saw its first two routes bolted by the same team who started Kindergarten, with additional lines added later on by Christian and Mike over the following years.

Oedipus was the first sector I equipped in Leonidio. I discovered it on an exploratory day with Lara, after visiting the Red Cave and the wall that would later become Jewellery Box.

Jewellery Box came to life after Lowie convinced me to start it—on the very same day we began work on the Red Cave.