Wille Pulkkinen

Better than I expected. Setting is the reason to climb this. Watch out for chossy footholds.

Finally! Last possible weekend of the autumn season and this 5 year project went down with the help of perfect friction. Almost a perfect compression testpiece on a straight 30 degree overhang with nice even flow. Rock is a little rough but I have climbed on rock that is a lot worse. Hard 7C+ in my opinion. Certainly the hardest thing I have climbed yet. Send took probably 30-50 sessions overall.

Great flow and moves. Rock is a little rough but nothing too bad.

Good flow with great holds. I traversed low, better that way imo.

This is probably the barely 2 meters tall font like slouper mantle boulder just next to Kuhanjulma. Really good compression from the sit and font like slouper topout. Perfect rock quality and holds.

World class!

Same beta as Eetu. Thanks to Oliver and Eetu for helping to develop this line! Exact same style as Superstylin’ but it goes the opposite direction. Also smaller holds and harder moves than Superstylin’. Send did not come easily. It was hard for me from start to topout!

Kiipesin ison lepo/toppikahvan päälle seisomaan minkä jälkeen tuli puudabi ja focuksen katoamisen jälkeen ei huvittanut lähteä helle lämmöissä auringon paahtamalle slabille sekoilemaan niin tulin alas. En nyt reittiä siis varsinaisesti kiivennyt eli en tikkiä halua virallisesti ottaa mutta merkkaan vain ylös, että jää jälki missä cragilla käynyt ja milloin. Kiipesin ilman kneepadia ja käyttämättä alun pedestalia jaloille niin reitti siihen slabin alkuun kahvan päälle tuntui aika solidilta A+ muuvittelulta. Voisi olla myös B. Toisaalta kitkat eivät olleet kovin hyvät eli saattoi vaikuttaa kokemukseen. Hieno linja hienossa paikassa. Tähti pois alun otteiden terävistä reunoista jotka painoivat ainakin itselläni ikävästi sormien taipeisiin.

Hiukan ahdas two move wonder, mutta siistit otteet hyvällä kivenlaadulla hienossa miljöössä.

Hyvä minilinja. Vaikea greidata. Toivottavasti sammaleen alta ei paljastu otteita jotka pilaisivat uniikin toppauksen. Sittari tulee olemaan hieno.

Some of the most fun moves and flow that I have had the pleasure to experience. One rough hold and maybe a little akward sitstart from a pedestal reduce the quality a little bit but the climb was just too fun not to give it the full stars.

Only one rough hold. Otherwise great granite and satisfying moves. Didn’t go down easily but send felt surprisingly easy.

Great boardstyle throw. That one move felt more like 7A and topout does not add difficulty.

Great boulder problem!

A little harder than it looks.

Hard and a little scary. Might be 6B+/C ?

Topout made it 7B/+ for me. Very evenly hard with a variety of beta options. Easy three stars!

Lefthand release was hard.

Perfect fridge!

Topout was the crux!

Hard 6B+

Hard 6B+

Difficulty and quality comes from the bad footholds. Very decent slab.

The last last final desperate try during a wet november day. Managed to dry the holds barely enough to have a decent try and even then I still felt I could fall at the top jugs. I don’t think I have ever sent anything that felt to be so ”limit”. The sitstart added a lot of quality. Weirdly the sloper had amazing friction even with very high humidity, the crimps were the opposite.

I saw these holds on this sligthly overhanging face back in 2019 when I had just started climbing and I thought maybe someday. I had lost hope multiple times that any logical line even exists that goes straight up but behold, 4 years and maybe around 30 sessions later I finally managed to do the pure line that goes straight up on the face using the small crimps. I climbed it two times with different start variations. The lower righthand sidepull crimp as a starting hold adds more difficulty and quality in my opinion. I have also climbed all kinds of different standstart variations which I can recommend if the sitstart is too fingery.

Maybe the best line of the face? It goes up the most logical and easiest way in my opinion. Indoor style moves on good holds with excellent rock quality.

Slouper test piece for the 7B range with excellent rock quality.

Ihana jalanpäälle rullaus täydellisellä kivenlaadulla. Kiipesin ylös saakka putsaillen jaliksia matkan varrella.

Aluksi tuntui mahdottomalta, mutta sitten löytyi asennot.

Upea linja. Hiukan rapsakka kivenlaatu ottaa yhden tähden pois, mutta muuten hienoa kiipeämistä alusta loppuun kauniissa ympäristössä. Greidistä sen verran että mielestäni eka muuvi on noin 7B jonka jälkeen loppu reitti about 7A eli omasta mielestäni 7B+ on ihan paikallaan.

Easy but still a little bit technical. Good rock.

Hardest and best 7B I have done so far. Required perfect beta and sendtrain started by Johny and Oliver.

Ehkä kiipesin vaan paskalla tekniikalla paskoilla kitkoilla kun tuntui 7A:lta. Anyway hieno tasapainoilu reitti siistillä otevalikoimalla. Eroaa juuri sopivasti crumble away reitistä ollakseen melko omanlaisensa.

Powerful and short on nice holds. This boulder checks your compression, crimp and open grip power all in just one move. The sit start will be so good and even better than the stand.

Really nice position dependent crimping. Crimps are sharp but I had good skin and great conditions and did it very quickly so sharpness was not an issue for me.

Climbed really nicely!

Nice indoor style roof.

Erinomainen lämppä

Ihan laadukas

It does not get more overhanging than this. Amazing classic!

My first åland seven. First move felt impossible first but then got good heel-backflag bycicle beta. Ihana fiilistely reitti !

Kiva kurotus. Lyhyempi joutuu varmaan tekemään vaikeamman manttelin.

One of the most amazing lines I have climbed thus far. The holds feel sculpted and they have this unique nice matte finish to them. The flow was really fun with the bottom being tensiony and static while the upper part was really fun dynamic throws with some air time. The drop-off jug is really logical in my opinion and does not take away any quality. In the past when the full line with the topout was projected the route was climbed to the finishing jug by multiple people. I felt a boulder line of this quality deserved a name so I put it up as a drop-off.

Solid 7A+ in my opinion. Felt hard even though shouldery laybacking and gastons are my strongest ability by far. As far as the quality of the boulder goes there really is absolutely nothing to complain about. Pure sustained perfection with a perfect set of unique holds and a logical finish.

Klassikko! Sloupperi vaati hyviä kitkoja sekä tahdonvoimaa pitää kiinni.

Nice logical traverse with good holds. Felt like a 6C/+.

Two sessions. Felt solid. No complaints other than it ends too quickly.

Good rock and sloupers. I used only the main boulder. Don’t worry about daps since it is a tight space when using the rightside arete. Climbed this sometime in the 2022 summer as an afterthought after a session of projecting, turned out to be decent after all.

Finding the beta for this and deciding where exactly the line should go took forever. Probably around 7A-B. Would be easy 3 stars if it weren’t for the uneven landing.

When I started climbing I looked at this and thought that it is impossible. Yet I still always returned to look at it. Eventually I started to see some small holds on it and in a year I tried to lift my bodyweight on the wall with little results. After two years I could lift my body weight on the wall but could not move. Three years later and over 10kg’s heavier I did the boulder like the third go of the spring season hence the name. Entire difficulty of the standstart comes from the starting move which makes it hard to grade but should be minimum A+ maybe B’ish. It was a little easier before but the only incut crimp broke off and now there is only a slopy crimp for the left hand. Three stars for location and moves, minus two stars for rock quality.

Somehow I had dismissed the idea of this line years ago. It wasn’t until I had way more climbing experience in the spring season of 2022 when I saw how this line could work beautifully. Great rock and unique crux.

One of the highest quality boulders that I have done. Needed good friction to match the slope. Used the arete hold for the right hand but stayed on the line and topped out direct.

A classic and for a good reason! Around 7 sessions probably. My first outdoor 7C with a mix of my personal weaknesses and strengths. Reduced one star because my skin had problems with the rock quality almost every session. I know this hasn’t been a problem for many others and a lot of people actually like red granite. What a feeling to finally tick this one off ! Well worth the investment.

This boulder has some good smooth holds and some really rough ones and oh man am I glad that the easiest beta for me skipped all the worst holds hence the two star rating.

For me the easiest beta was to dyno the beginning. Really unique rock quality.

Quality extension from sit start to the already excellent ”How I learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Send”

Vedin alun dynolla ja toppauksen polvella.

Iso läski pintsi. Automaattiset kaks tähtee.

Nice 6A.

Nihkee lämppä

Perfection

Kinda foot work intensive

Lots of different holds on good stone quality and nice moves. Graded it originally 6C after a hard day of cleaning and climbing. Found more efficient beta the next session and probably around 6B, with new beta it flows even better IMO.

Fantastic. Committing moves and big fat smooth pinches always get stars from me!

Nice dihedral start. Started from holds about shoulder height. Line uses some of the same holds as the serotoniinikantti but goes on the right side of it.

Nice logical arete

Nice powerful compression and pinching

Static left shoulder lock killed the dynosaur. Such a shame.

Mukava kahvaralli semi dynolla

Fun moves

Clean line and always a plus if you have to use all the handholds as footholds also!

Powerful laybacking

Helppoa ja korkeeta

Nice flow

Really good moves !

Did it first on toprope then when I got enough pads I did the FA cleanly. While I cleaned it again for the boulder ascent I discovered an intermediate hold which makes it a little bit easier, around 6C I think. Such a good boulder.

One of the best of the grade in my opinion !

Featured slab climbing.

You really have to trust your feet on this one!

Fat pinch always gets at least one star from me!

No älä muuta sano!

Hyvä nelonen

Easy jug route on a rare ”gritstone” rock quality.

Nää on näitä 5 plussia 😬😁 Kiitos Oliverille beta huutelusta !!

First route for me where actually pulling hard from a jam was easier than laybacking.

So much fun ! Nice flow and all the moves are top quality! Solid 7B and a better route after I removed the big corner block.

Nice for the grade!

Big holds, hard moves, just the way I like it! Had a horror slab experience going up! There is a clean slab of rock on the other side with a tree grown into the rock which is useful for coming down! Edit. Had to downgrade to a softish 7A after couple of climbers showed up and found a beta which adds two hand moves but skips the big move and reportedly makes it just a V5. Tried the new beta but for me it is still easier to just do the one big move at the start, objectively though skipping the big move is a lot easier for most people hence the downgrade to a "soft" 7A.

I am pretty sure I did the FA of atleast this variation. Didn’t spot any previous marks of climbing on this wall. Reportedly FA was done by Olli Pyykkönen around early 2000's.

Nice indoor bouldering style !

Nice natural line!

For me a softish 7A once I figured the correct beta but I still think deserving of the 7A grade because some of the moves are kinda morpho. Nice gastons!

Don’t let the small size of the block fool you. This one has lot of nice quality moves on really nice holds. Three stars in my opinion!

Nice laybacking and easy highballing!

Highball training!

Excellent moves and holds for a 6A. Wouldn’t personally bother with lower starts since they just take away value and quality from an otherwise perfect little boulder problem.

Top rope solo with grigri 2

Usually I don’t like traverses but it was obvious that this one combines all the best holds and features into a nicely flowing line.

When I discovered this boulder in 2019 after I had started climbing I knew immediately that I wanted to climb this line that goes up the most overhanging part of the boulder and tops out into a steep slab. It wasn’t until fall 2020 that I was good enough to do the crux and complete this line which in my opinion is the best of the boulder. Rock quality: 10/10.

One star for the magnificent fat pinch.

Great corner arete. Don’t exactly remember when I first climbed it and what variation and how. I have since then climbed it over the years in everyway possible dozens of time.

Around the summer 2020. I actually took a fall near the top during flash try and slid all the way down the ramp and over the lip straight into my organic big pad. Sent it the next go.

I continue to be amazed that I did this line back in June 2020 when I had been climbing only a little over a year. I have casually often tried the moves and sections again over the years and they have not felt any easier even though I am much stronger and better climber now. This makes me think the line could possibly be even a 7B. Now doing this topo and reflecting upon the fact that I could pull off this feat back then as a much weaker climber I started to think the old name I had for this route ”Escape from the bear’s nest” was a little bit too nonsensical and did not resonate with me anymore so I gave it a much more fitting name ”Climb or Flight” which might partly explain why I managed to do this back then. Rock quality is excellent for the most part. The bottom of the cave has a couple of annoying chossy holds but it is not a deal breaker though it causes a loss of a half a star. Other lost half a star comes from the landing which is manageable but only barely.

Okey, so first a couple of tips. Don’t climb when the 13:00 sun is going to destroy your eyes once you get over the lip. Second, have a spotter and a couple of bads. Took a couple of risky falls while trying to figure out the beta. Once You get the technique then it isn’t that hard. Reminds me a little of ”lemmen jättiläinen” in more ways than one. A classic problem.

Nice problem. For some reason felt really hard for me.

Date not exact. This one caused me a huge flapper, be careful.

My first 7A (I think?) project. At first I couldn't even do the first move and thought it was impossible. As the months went by and I gave it more tries it started to feel slightly more possible with every try I gave it and then finally today everything just clicked and the send didn't even feel that hard. Amazing feeling, hope you enjoy it too :)

Hieno reitti, ensimmäisiä omia projekteja. En ole kovin halukas laittamaan betavideota tähän koska itselleni suurin osa tämän reitin lähettämis-prosessin nautintoa oli yrityksen ja erehdyksen kautta (ja pienellä Jarkan avustuksella) löytää se oikea beta noin 6kk aikana :) EDIT: Betavideo nyt sitten kuitenkin lisätty :)

Came back when the boulder was a little drier and not so dirty. Closer to 6A actually.

Lot of the routes next to the Pandemia slab are cleaned but unmarked anywhere but this one had uncleaned topout so I figured it wasn't done yet.

Hieno reitti alusta loppuun. Very clean technical compression boulder.

2019/2020 maybe. Decent technical line for the 6B range.

I think this was the first line I climbed on this boulder around the summer 2019. Juggy climb on a slight overhang with really good rock.

Excellent easier boulder. I don’t remember was it a flash or if I tried some other variation first. Around spring 2019. I have climbed it dozens of times since. Great warmup!