Shaun Hurrell

Really enjoyed working out the moves

Came very close on onsight attempt but hard to read upper crux! Amazing route. Second go

Came very close on onsight attempt but hard to read upper crux! Amazing route. Second go

Pretty cool route with a great cut-loose move! Tricky to work out sequence of crux and surprisingly pumpy, but got the RP on second go. Feels hard for 6c+ with the big lock off move so tempted to say 7a but I am out of form at the moment

Fluffed the crux on first go but really fun when you get it. End mantle is cool too.

Niiice

Tricky! Nice crimps. Perhaps hard for the grade

Pretty nice

Tech start and cool route. Overhang section is fun

Retro onsight. Possible to down climb but the route is much better if you start from the water because of the harder first moves. Great fun

Took a few attempts to get the top section but just as good as last year!

First ascent whilst brushing :)

Kort men fin!

Nice route! I had always wondered why there were no routes there on such great rock — kudos for bolting it. Ending is quite special and also decent easier crux a bit lower down too. Quality rock. I think a bit soft for 6b+ though compared to others at Ekoberget

Gahhh nearly my first 7b onsight, but messed it up at the anchor. Went on second go once I'd found a better hold. Fun route

Very cool. Bolt to bolt first go to work out the moves and extended a couple of QDs at the crux to improve the clipping. Final crux move seemed impossible until I found the right beta. Great sequences. Sent it on first RP attempt. Either I’m getting stronger or this is a bit soft for the grade. Anchor is two bolts, but only one has a ring.

Cool and committing move out to the right. It's easier going straight up rather than moving into the corner, but it's a bit blind. So worth checking out from the ledge if you climb the 'An Eyeball of..' first.

Great technical crux on the bulge and fun easy slab after. Previously done as top rope solo then today I seconded it as we climbed out the top.

It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps

Nice face climb!

Backflip from the ledge optional

Slippery feet meant some nice falls into the water first and second goes haha

Barefoot FA then repeated with dry shoes after we opened the traverse

A bit of swim-exploration on a hot day in August proved fruitful and we discovered some easy DWS potential. Nice route and the end functions as a good downclimb for the other routes. Will bring a brush next time.

Häftigt! The mantle wasn’t as bad as the guide book makes out, nice heelhook move. The cut loose on the overhang was cool too!

Really nice slab sequence and beautiful smooth rock with a great sunset

Very nice

Awesome! Got it on fourth go. Great sequences and pumpy at the top. I didn’t use the taboo hold of course…

Another Buster classic! Did on top rope solo. Really cool fingery crux with a two-finger pocket..!

Absolutely brilliant. Fingery crux in the beginning then amazing slopey jugs that become surprisingly pumpy as you gain height to the shelf. Wish it was longer. 6b+?

Did on top rope solo first and brushed up the crack and holds. Shares the same fingery start as Scylla then follows the crack directly up. Great moves near the top before the shelf that needed working out.. Hard to grade but 6c+/7a. Harder and scarier than Scylla.

Fantastic roof move. Got it on 5th go. Upper section is interesting too

2nd go. Cool dynamic move at the end!

5th or 6th go. The moves take some working out! Pumpy for such a ridiculously short climb.

Very, very nice route, third go.

Super hard fingery start. Just about managed on top rope after some brushing. Keep right at the end for the full experience to the top. Cool route. I don't think 'Escape 6c' exists.

Intense warm up! Took a while to work out the crux but didn’t fall. Didn’t use the arête

Guidebook says 7a but feels soft for the grade. Pretty intense awkward bouldery crux though might be hard for some.

Looked impossible on first inspection but actually not as hard as it seems. Pumpy. 6c+/7a

Really cool sequence involving a kneebar and a cut-loose! Really fun. Checked the moves when lowering from Armani, then sent on first ground-up attempt, so technically no flash.

Nice arete moves. Definitely harder than the 5 they give it in the guide book. I also downclimbed it to warm up which was trixy.

Very nice and intense route. Got it on second go after working out the crux beta which made the overhang less intense. Very cool to have the crimpy airy mantle onto the slab after the crux.

Deserves the stars! Very nice and flowy in the beginning and nice cruxy section. Got it on second go

Enjoyable start and then fingery, technical crux that is very beta dependent. Brilliant route. Not easier than Totalvägra in my opinion

Very different character to its neighbours after the fingery start. An experience. Fun.

Used it as a warm up and got flash pump. So returned to it later for the send. Really enjoyable crimpy route (like a longer version of Brown Sugar) with interesting top

Got it on second attempt. Very cool with nice finish.

Some great beta from Calle meant I came close on the first try and then sent second go. Great route with two distinct cruxes (first bouldery, second more sensitive) and good rests in between. Direct up the first face seems harder, our beta was slightly to the left of the bolts there.

Cool warm up with enough of a rest in the middle to stop getting flash pump. Fun finish too. Beta warning: I found a kneebar

Cool old-school runout means climbing with concentration. Fantastic finish on the headwall

Fun overhanging start then very easy on upper slab

Cool airy traverse with sensitive feet

Beautiful holds

Very nice sharp fingery crux!

Interesting start and nice crux sequence around the corner. Thanks Buster for letting me have the FA! Very nice belay ledge above the water.

Really nice, went on third go once I’d worked out the sequence and crimped hard :) Potentially some loose rock in the upper section.

Really nice route, quality moves for the grade

Fantastic route, varied, exposed

Super pumpy. Managed to get it first go today after trying a couple of times three years ago. Quite a battle and I probably read it wrong as it didn’t seem to let up towards the end. Great route though!

Onsight solo DWS. It seemed ok to solo it as it sticks out above the water after the first few metres, and I felt I could jump out if I was going to fall. A bit sketchier than I envisaged (and quite pumpy), but after the first overhanging part it felt kind of safe to jump off as long as I didn’t slip so kept climbing to the top. Perfect weather, surprisingly warm for March! There’s a nice small ledge at the anchor to jump from! Cool route

Sketchy damp mossy start to the first bolt then really nice demanding climbing with a committing move. Ekoberget feel. Four drilled bolts if I remember correctly, not three. No piton. The slab was a bit dirty with lichen but nice and sharp so a fine finish.

Fun!

Nice and sustained for the grade. Would be pretty much a solo on trad gear. This would be a lovely sport climb if bolted!

Exploring top rope solo

Cool route

With sit start. Top out flake a little untrustworthy. Nice route though

Very nice!

Nice compact rock with some interesting moves over the bulges

Great route with airy feel and hero jug! Fantastic afternoon out including the fun, exposed scrambly approach from the beach plus some swimming/jumping from the ledge (it’s deep enough). Checked out the DWS potential below the ledge and did a ~6a route (first ascent?) on the left side with a cool heel hook mantle top out back onto the ledge. The rest of the overhanging wall below the ledge looks v hard (with or without wet hands) but some DWS possibility.

Really nice route with some small grips. Perhaps the rests are too good for it to be 6b. Would be much harder with avoiding the jug in the middle of the wall on the left though

Nice route, a bit chossy in the middle, but ok. Interesting finish!

Fantastic and varied route with nice rock and really interesting sequences. Thanks so much for bolting and cleaning!

Very nice rock, but a little easy for 6a perhaps

In approach shoes in the wet. Nice arête

Tough first couple of moves to jugs then fun and airy topout

Is this the line to the left of Flinkra Fingrar or to the right on the slab?

Big move from the start to the jugs then fun and airy topout

Weird route on dusty rock. Not sure if I was too far on the arête on the left near the top

Sit start

Found multiple fun ways to climb this, including with a head/shoulder chimney jam on the rock hanging behind your head, or by using foot jams in the crack above

Cool 3D climbing! Felt maybe easier than the 6b though...

Second go. Sharp!

Great heel hook beta from the video. Nice route

Great tough start leading into an amazing traverse and finish. Thoroughly enjoyable

Amazing route!!

Tough start

Really nice

On top rope

Amazing high boulder, but agree with over comment about grade of 6b+. Couldn’t commit to the final moves at the top without mats, brush or spotter but great fun nonetheless. Logging ascent to show someone has been here recently. Next time! I found a couple of other great routes in the same valley, in the 5-6b grade range, all high and good quality.

Really interesting mantle!

Cool holds, but very short route. I like crimps so maybe found it easier to establish.

Väldigt fin

Jätte fin

Very nice high route. Is even better if you sit start using the rail by the floor, use the left side pull crimp to get to the stand start ledge and then mantle onto the ledge (5+)

Really nice route and rock quality. Maybe a little easy for the grade. I really like that only the absolute necessary parts of the mossa were cleaned for the top out scramble - good to leave some moss

I flashed the 7a to the right but found this hard and took a few attempts to find the right beta

Squeeze those fingers!

Cool moves from the sit start. Rock is nice and grippy for top out, but moves are a little awkward. Careful and don’t climb in the spring because there is a bird nest near the sit start

Not for those that are tall, but really quite a nice problem if not. I think the dynamic and the static versions are a similar grade (maybe static is slightly harder as you need to crimp quite hard).

Pulled hard for the sit start and enjoyed the exposure of the finish! Went on 3rd or 4th go (but had done the standstart version before)

Really nice heel then knee bar. Top out is ok. Climbed down to the left

Lost the on-sight at the anchor!

Mega overhang. Cool view emerging from the cave too.

Spicy climbing out the overhang to the second clip, and then some great fun moves on the slab

Quite a nice interesting move to the right when leaving För forna klätterfantaster, but otherwise uneventful and the anchor is not as far right as it looks in the guidebook. So I traversed left again on the underclings to carry on the other route.

Brilliant. Beautiful compact rock with an excellent crux sequence. Tough to onsight but sent quite easily with flow on fourth attempt after a silly mistake on the third, and managed to keep enough energy in the tank to pull over the lip. A bolt hanger is missing at the start of the upper slab, giving these easier moves an extra exciting feeling of calm after pushing through the crux. A proper classic. Could be hard for the grade, could be dependent on finding the right holds.

Sit start is quite hard, then really nice holds in the small crack and easy top out.

Really nice technical problem on quality rock. Took many tries to work out how to top out, needed a spotter in the end! There is a harder variation if you go direct to the side pull using the tiny two finger crimp, missing the pinch on the 'knob' on the right.

Very nice route with an exciting, high top out. Tried it many times last year but never worked out the top-out as I was going too far right (which actually could be a good harder variation along the arête...work in progress). Today went on first go after knowing the correct sequence thanks to Fredrik, psyched!

Nice route on good quality rock. It looks like there are some more good routes on this wall that haven’t been uploaded properly to 27 crags?

Interesting slabby beginning is quite a contrast to the specific crimpy crux

Thanks for bolting this awesome route!

Really enjoyed it. Great game of ‘find the jug for clipping’. Nice step left higher up too

Fantastic

Nice easy exit from the water

On first try I chickened out towards the end and moved rightwards to the arête, but then on second go after a bit of route cleaning mid-ascent, found a good right foothold made moved straight up on crimps.

Fantastic experience, swimming out, climbing DWS then topping out with a few careful steps. So good I did it twice.

Nice crimps

Hard to judge the grade as was wearing skate shoes and was a little damp but felt harder than others I did that day so probably a fair grade

Interesting to read at the top, but easy enough (in skateshoes)

Lovely sequence that was fine in skateshoes even though a bit damp

Slippery send in skate shoes

Hard onsight because of the difficult clipping but type two fun on the intense mantle :)

Really nice route with some sensitive moves near the top to hold off the pump. Recommended

Really cool route with technical lower crux, easy hero roof move and not so pumpy at the top if you find the right holds

Also a very nice route, especially when keeping right and direct at the overhanging arête using a good side pull, rather than venturing off and around the left where a lot of the chalk is. Cool slab finish with some good footwork before the slab

Brilliant route with nice holds and ‘real rock’ experience

Sit start

We found two ways of doing the middle section - both interesting!

Beautiful climb. Hard for the grade but also short. Sent the direct variation using the crack rather than moving out left + which is easier.

Nice route. Airy feeling

Dirty

Great move across getting left foot onto ledge

Great little slab

Nice mantel with a cool view as you emerge

Lichen in top so interesting top out without a mat..

Haha not sport. Nice traverse

Follow the ‘root’

Nice route

Don’t put feet on the slab