Benedikt Neyses

Nice climbing around the arete

Worthwhile addition to have the top part of the Colossus project as its own boulder. Nice and techy moves and an easy but blind dead-point to gain the top.

Almost flash. Cool start move.

No stars, only done for completion. the version including the boulder to the right climbs much nicer. Pretty morpho.

Really cool boulder with some seriously weird beta to set up for the crux. Strange that nobody has done it before, feels really obvious to go straight up from the start jug. Three star movement, but visually there are more striking lines in Häller.

Quite techy and shouldery on small gaston crimps with an awkward move to the top. A bit morpho, could just about latch the slopey part of the lip in a semi-static way. Nice addition to the SID block.

Quintessential Moonboard style crimper test piece that requires quite a bit of precision until the final throw to the lip, where you can be pretty desperate and still catch a big swing. Good moves on nasty holds.

Tricky feet in the beginning and big moves at the end.

One mover, but really nice. Managed to do the dyno more like a half-dynamic deadpoint. Shouldery swing!

Really good holds and decent moves.

Interesting moves, but not quite as smooth climbing as its neighbor to the left.

One move wonder. For a more challenging version of the same problem try "The sloper and me" at Risberget.

Pretty nice problem with good flow. A bit trickier than it might appear.

Grade can be anything depending on length/reach.

One-move-wonder.

An interesting addition to the balance slab. Good mantle training.

Elimination, but fun moves.

Unusual, but fun moves in the beginning. Nice addition to Enzo. Funny to find a new problem after 5 years on one of the most climbed boulders in the region.

Basically one move plus the top-out, but that move is a banger!

IMO one of the best blocs in Skellefteå. Super obvious start holds, two small crimps, and a big dead-point to the perfectly round lip. Great vision, Petter!!

Interesting moves on small crimps. Depending on body size the beta can become completely different. Changed my beta for the start and it affected how I solved all the other moves.

FA? One move wonder, but quite cool as it is tricky to establish in a position from which you can generate momentum.

Techy!!

Nice lowball!

One of the best lines in Skellefteå, a future classic! Has everything you want in a boulder problem: a proud line with awesome and varied movement, good rock quality and a potential heart-breaker move towards the end.

Slightly harder after the best hold on the whole problem broke. Pretty nice technical climbing, with a committing dead point to the top.

Finally done after 7-8 sessions over 3 years. One of the few times where I think the elimination make the more beautiful and logical line.

Another easier problem with interesting moves.

Surprisingly nice and technical moves.

Seemed to be a quite stupid problem at first, but then it turned out to be super interesting, with a funky knee-bar, kind-of mantel move. Done with knee-pad.

Maybe the worst problem in an area full of good problems.

Interesting moves all the way through.

Quite nice for an eliminate.

Morpho but nice! Sit start marginally harder than the stand.

Equally nice as the sit start, but more even in difficulty.

A bit cruxy in the beginning, but really nice move, and superb sloper/jug rails. Proud line!

Nice one! Easier then I thought it would be.

As good as it gets for such a low ball, only the getting into the starting position is a bit weird.

A feeling of Font.

Not super nice, but the right-hand start hold is so cool that it needs to be climbed. The crux is to get your butt off the ground and establish for the first move.

I think this one can be climbed in a much more dignified way than I did.

Looks better than it climbs.

Quite cool moves in the beginning.

Basically a one move wonder, but that move is cool. Had to top-out to the left, which is more difficult, I think, because the other side of the arete was wet.

Many different betas tested for the last part, at the end it was arguably the most obvious one that worked.

That's what happens when you want to completely milk a boulder. Found the sloper hold (worse angle than the bad slopers on the Beastmaker 2000, but better friction), and wondered if it's possible to hang-on to it. Eventually it worked, and eventually the problem went down. One-move wonder. 7ish.

Many small high precision moves on slopey crimps. Quite fun working it out and finally sending it. Grade: 7something

Low ball, does not look very inspiring, but the moves are interesting and require precision. Might be hard for the grade, prime conditions in autumn will tell.

Tricky first move. Requires both precision and some power.

Interesting movement on okay holds with pretty good rock quality. Might be stiff for the grade, who knows.

Gave it a grade boost because of the height and somewhat sketchy top-out. Burned the flash by being cocky trying it in my worn-out sneakers, but bailed at the top.

Not that high, but super clean line, abstract shape and funky movement revolving around 2 nano-crimps. Very body-position and length-dependent. I can imagine this to be desperate for some and rather easy for others.

One move wonder. Too bad the sit-start is annoyingly blocked by the rock behind. Could have been a super cool line.

Completes the full line.

First move hardest. Overall nice flow and powerful moves on crimps.

More stars if it wouldn't be an elimination. For a bigger challenge try to dyno to the top!

Tricky feet!

The whole line is pretty forced, if you don't like eliminations, stay away. But the moves are fun and it is instructive if you want to learn big compression moves, where you have to pull hard with your heel or toe.

Very cool moves. Pure compression! Felt much more solid this year compared to last autumn. Warm recommendation!!

Nice and easy slab. Climbed it as a very contrived elimination which made it quite a bit more difficult and sketchy. But I recommend to climb the natural line, just following the arete in the easiest way possible.

Did it quite fast with the "new" beta that goes left to a left-hand crimp. Maybe that was the old beta anyhow. Was also close to doing it really straight up, but that would be more like 7B+.

Straight-up crimp line. Unfortunately I pulled off one fo the key crimps when going for the lip. Now it's a bigger crimp, but with a worse orientation.

Birthday present to myself. One hard move. Maybe someone can find easier beta.

Fontish moves on slopers with the crux at the end. Might be easier with the crispy friction of low temperatures.

Kind of annoying to arrange the pad and get into the starting position on this lowball, but the moves are actually quite cool! Felt like 6B+/6Cish, but some holds were a bit moist => probably easier.

Never thought I would do the FA of a slab problem that is not completely trivial. Interesting moves in the beginning, and a little sketchy ending. 2.5/3 stars. The grade could be anywhere between 6B and 7A, I have no clue.

Burned the flash by pulling onto the starting holds and exclaiming that the first move is "absolutely unreasonable", then dropping off. After Petter convinced me that it's absolutely not unreasonable, I sent it second try. 1.5/3 stars

Fantastic moves, the first one in particular is one of the best I did in a while. Quite even all the way up! Really good rock quality. My grading radar is all over the place but should be somewhere between 7A-7B.

The first move sets the grade, basically. Brutal and delicate, difficult timing to catch the left arete. Afterwards, 2-3 fun moves with heel- and toe-hooks to reach the stand start. Always weird feeling when you send a problem with the first move as the crux. In projecting mode you try and try and try, finally you stick it, and suddenly it's on and you have to go into full send-mode. 30 seconds later it's over.

Fantastic problem with funky movement, requires both a lot of power and technique! Long physical and mental battle over 10+ sessions.

Good for warm up

Good flow, pretty even difficulty all the way with a gnarly mantle onto the headwall. Luckily, we got a nice send-train going :) Feels soft in the grade.

New Skellefteå Classic. Had to do the original beta in a dynamic way to reach the top. Took many, many tries and a fair amount of skin.

What problem!! The highlight of my climbing life, so far. Powerful, technical, and slightly scary at the top. Everything you want in one boulder problem. Thought it could go after 4 sessions, but at the end it was 6.

Nothing special

I liked that one. The line is so clean, totally obvious from the beginning. To me that has a certain aesthetic.

Hangboard style holds, quite cool, actually

Climbed it without cleaning.

Not too bad.

Start holds will break soon. Aesthetic rock, the line is just one move.

Not a super big fan of dynos, but that one was cool. More about technique and timing than pure strength. Hard to grade.

I don't know about the other climbers, but I found a beta without a dyno. Felt exactly like the 6B+ problems I did in Squamish.

I don't know if it's possible to flash the problem after doing the real Meshuggah. Did it the variation in the first try at least. Surprisingly fun!

Nice moves, took me some time to find the right beta, even though it's quite straight forward once found.

Short and powerful!

Friction was not so good.

I think the top-out was pretty tough, otherwise the grade sounds about right.

Punted hard on the top out once, got super angry with myself. Sent it in rage 30 minutes and about 10 tries after. Quite fun overall!

At first sight this problem didn't impress me at all, but once I tried the moves I realized how cool it is!! Had to put in a real fight. Probably around 20 serious tries in the second session. INTENSE!

Three stars, even though it's chipped! Great flow at the beginning and a delicate crux sequence before the throw to the final jug.

Gym style moves

Aaarrgh, that was flashable, but not if you mess up the foot-beta :) Nice problem anyhow!

Felt a bit soft, had pretty good conditions, though.

Unusual moves, fits me well!

Cool moves, but the rock hurts. Nice for warming up before projecting Better than Art :)

Two tries. One difficult move to a sloper ledge with kinda strange body positioning. Nice one!

No single move is really hard, but it adds up.

Two hard moves. Profited from insane friction! Feels like an obvious line.

Good warm-up problem. Nice moves on rather good holds. Creds to Petter for finding and brushing the problem.

2nd ascent? No problems with dabbing. Used a heel-hook.

Soft

this one tested my nerves. still a cool problem.

Funny first move. 1-2 stars. 2nd ascent??

good flow

I think this problem is a bit more fun for tall climbers.

Cool sequence in the middle.

To me the start feels a bit forced, it also doesn't really add to the difficulty of the problem.

Clear line!!

morpho.

Nice rock quality but the moves are not so great.

Enzo is really good, but Lorenzo is even better. Great flow. Slightly harder.

Really good line.

Like an indoor boulder problem :) Had a minimal swish/dab on the crashpad, though.

Great line! This area gets better and better. Super psyched!

5+/6A highball boulder.

Weird problem. Crazy, almost upside down start. To be honest, I enjoyed this problem quite much! Hard to grade, but certainly harder than Charter.

Great crux move!

Finally!! The new beta is gold, still a tough problem!

I don't want to throw too many stars around, but there is no denying that this is a nice problem.

Such a nice flow. Even the top-out is fits!

Almost flashed it. Slipped with the feet before doing the first move. Nice problem anyhow. Cool heel hooks

Andra försök!

Long moves on good holds.

Awesome line. Pumpy

Felt hard in the context of other boulders in the area.

Sketchy last moves to the ledge.

Session flash. The Brutalix version feels more pure.

Straight forward, no tricks. Awesome dyno to perfect ledge. Maybe harder.

One of the best easy problems in the area.

After being disillusioned from the difficulty of the traverse project we found this problem. Unfortunately it was rather disappointing to say the least. -1 star!

The first three moves are just flawless. Delicate and powerful at the same time! Used a toehook to match on the second hold.

Nice top-out!

I can't decide between 1 and 2 stars :) Probably nicer for tall people.

Funky start! Nice flow.

Got a bit scared at the end, but a really nice line.

Great flow with a worthy ending!

Awesome rock quality. A lot of fun to try!

Only the last move is a little weird.

Cool moves!! Maybe 6B

Quite a special problem. Hard!

very sketchy top-out ... the seal technique works ;)

One of the best lines in the Skellefteå area. Very sustained moves. To me, every move up to the ledge becomes gradually harder.

Awesome name!

Almost flashed it, but then I got stuck in the middle of the mantling at the top-out! Great line :)

Tough start followed by a really well flowing sloper sequence

Very cool sequence in the middle of the problem. Feels like hard 6C+ or soft 7A.

Interesting moves. Different betas possible.

6B in good conditions

SDS. Felt equally easy as all the other 5s in the kidscorner.

Nice line! Pure body tension. Soft.

Did it some time in autumn 2013. Weird top out :)

Could be 6A+ as well. Not sure, though.

Not sure about the grade. Could be one step lower.

Was easier than expected. I think it could be a 5C.

Cool moves! I would say 6A+ with the heel hook beta for the move to the ledge.