Marco Pelle

Physical start followed by a technical finale

Excellent problem with amazing grips and moves

Could be a first ascent (?), doing it without using the out-of-line jug after the first moves. Much more logical this way

Sharp and technical

Aka il sasso rosso

Proper low start will be nails

Kneepad success

Classic and beautiful

Direct mantle

Seldom climbed problem, very nice one

Best problem/rock in the area. Guess I found an easier beta since it felt easier.

Heinous first move. Good ol' crimpers.

Nice little jump

Crimping at its finest. 7C+/8A

Excellent moves!

Wonderful arete in a magical setting

Contrived problem on sharp holds. Funny last move, nevertheless. A few tries which makes me think it cannot be that hard.

Mind over matter

Drop-knees everywhere. Getting close on ze proj.

New beta, I finally can start trying the link-up

Nice little roof, sent in the heat. Champorcher still the best, fuck the Grampians.

Ugly onemover. My trademark.

Lowball. Son of boredom.

Starts far left like Jamaican trip and exits like Il golosauro. Worthless.

Nice moves for a drop-off. One more link-up to do on the boulder.

The line on the right of the sablones bloc. A bit contrived start (the lowest where we could pull up) with a lh undercling/pinch and a rh slopy sidepull. Trademark onemover

Obvious line, unobvious beta. Very pleased.

Aesthetic and techical arete. Used to be 7C, then after a hold broke it remained unclimbed for years until Nicky found a new sequence and proposed 7C+. Repeaters agreed, then recently an easier method involving a cross move to a nice wide pinch was found, making it a bit easier. Probably the best problem in the area.

Nice coordination crux move from a small crimp to a positive edge. Spicy topout on sandy slopers. Soft for being a font 7C, but I guess it fits pretty well my style.

Very nice moves on tricky holds, not a proud line but worth some tries for sure. Considering the fact that I sent in a day, I guess that it might be a bit easier than 7C+. Or maybe I'm just in a good shape, hard to say.

One brief session like 6 years ago with Nicky. Then I figured out the moves again last week with Aly, to come back today with Gabri and quickly send, thanks to some adjustments in my beta. Used the weak man method, needless to say. Chuffed to have climbed such a pure and iconic line, a dream come true!

The problem to the left of Dos canones, in the Backgammon area. Good moves lead to a strange mantle, nice one.

Perfect sandstone-like granite and holds, amazing. Solo mission paid off.

Very good looking problem, not as good to climb imo. Classic nevertheless.

Perfect holds and sandstonelike granite, a total must-do. Best I've done in a while. 7C+ must be a joke.

Starts like La teoria del meh and exits right in Insonnia. Bad rock but nice moves.

Easy start on Nessun dorma and exits right

Very nice river roof with wonderful colors and good moves.

Few tries, basically a onemover. Sharp rock but nice problem.

Perfect arete in a peaceful setting, third ascent.

The forgotten prow on the back of Zarmina

And with this one I'm done with masso 13. Traverse grade.

The upper problem of the area, hidden gem

Two pretty intense moves, one of my hardest FAs

Ugly onemover to the right of Q*Bert

Lowball pit, shame on me.

Starts down in the hole and climbs out of the small cave. Exits like Capablanca

Second ascent after Gabri. Athletic problem with a hard second to last move. A tough one.

Traverse right to left on good slopers

Far right on the Degrado sociale boulder

Painful climbing at its finest.

One of my favourites in the area, third ascent after Gabri and Lez. With new beta avoiding the awkward kneebar.

Tried the problem once years ago, with no beta or chance. Today with good friction I sent relatively quickly. Probably 7C, even though a soft one.

Totally unexpected. Superclassic and a nemesis of mine. Jiyeaah.

Painful crimps and spicy mantle. Lots of new stuff brushed and climber these days!

Cool bubble brushed by Totò. Nice addition to the area.

Very aestethic prow with some powerful moves, old project of the area. It can be a little bit harder but who knows?

Sitstart to the existing problem with the longest name on earth: La benedizione del trono di granito rosa...

Nice slopers problem with the intrusion of a painful tiny crimp. Too bad I couldn't send its neighbour Zarzamora. Back in better shape next year for sure!

An old nemesis from 7 years ago, feel like a circle completes. Outstanding compression problem in a wonderful setting.

Quickly switched from the original beta to the campus one and sent fast. Found it very easy this way. Brilliant problem and awesome looking wall.

Very nice problem fitting my style pretty well. A few tries. I think it could be a soft 7C in Font.

Campusing on razorblade-like crimps is not what you expect from this place. Nice moves nonetheless.

Cool powerful roof problem, hard times on the second move since I'm so bad when it comes to heelhooking. Hard for the grade and sharp for fuck's sake!

Very good rock, benchmark for the grade

Traverse in the meadow, right to left

Crimpy and quite painful problem, to the right of Ars moriendi

Easily the most aesthestic line in the area. Powerful first move, then uber-technical exit. Stunner.

Hard the first move, then easier

Technical moves into a slopy lip encounter. Pinetto rules.

Small prow on Sasso della Croce. Cool pinches!

On the back of Masso 13, compression problem. A bit stiff for the grade maybe.

Body tension problem brushed and FAed by Gabri. I found a human beta much easier compared to the one used by the Red Man and the grade settles around 7B in my opinion. Very good one, double ascent with Max. Next target: the much harder Brown dampness.

Stunning line and moves in the orange cave. I guess it's a bit easy for 7C, I found it quite hard anyway and had to refine my beta to battle the pumpy nature of the problem. Gem.

Great problem brushed by Max in the talus. A really weird and quite hard coordination move on a black/orange overhang followed by some sweeping easier moves up a prow. True stunner! Another great day in this dream place.

Used the original beta aka the real men's way. Cool mix of power and technique, is the poney still alive?

Cool piece of rock, albeit lowball. Mantle via the crack to the right

Felt unbelievably solid despite the problem being my antistyle. Cool moves. We found some other quality boulders we're gonna clean up soon, the area is still growing!

River boulder, nice deadpoint from a slopey pinch to a positive edge

SA after Nikcy. Logical extension of Pompe by traversing the whole overhang right to left. Slightly harder than the original version and a bit pumpy. Many stuff to be cleaned and climbed in the woods, hoping the heinous heat won't kick in so fast.

Small compression prow, bad rock and an even worse name by Lez. Moves are goos anyway!

Traverse on slopers

Quite painful problem. Nowhere close to a Font 7C, more like a hard 7B or soft 7B+. A few tries.

Second ascent, hidden jem in plain sight! Proud FA by Gabri, back in the ages when kneepad was still a dream. Now it's a dream come true, finally, and a new brilliant problem is reborn from the dust!

Gym-style climbing, nice moves. A very funny day with the homies.

Rebrushed to life after years of dust and tomatoes. Different betas involving a crazy slopy rail and subtle body placements. One of the best, if not the best, in the area. Psyched.

Crimpy problem following a logical minicrack, second try, third ascent. It felt more like 7A+/B, considering the effort and the fact that I found a probably easier beta for the two moves' crux.

Same start as 'Ricochet' but climbs the right part of the prow. Really good moves, the crux being a blind slap around the right corner searching for a positive crimp. Second ascent after Nicky.

Cool compression problem tackling a very overhanging prow. Three moves get you to the powerful move out left, which is the crux of the problem. Hard to be sure about the grade, as it is quite morphological. Brilliant climb nonetheless!

Compression problem with nice pinches. Thanks to Gabri's method and some small adjustments, we avoided the awkward heelhook and went straight up in font-style. Good one.

Training actually payed off. Felt really different compared to my first attempts last winter. What was meant to be as a 'refining beta' session ended with a good send burn. I'm glad my punting percentage is slowly decreasing. Good effort Max on La rondella bassa: Stonelove ticks a sgagana.

Super classic by Fred and one of the best problems in Chironico. Smoothly went from impossible to feasible thanks to microbeta changes, an interesting learning process with a happy ending. Could have been done earlier, but I'm still slow in this kind of things. Pretty sustained all the way through. Finally the pony is strong within me?

Outstanding

Punted on the flash burn, then a few tries. Gym style more than Font's, perfect holds nonetheless.

Really cool prow, crazy heelhook beta discovered by max. Classic

Sent on my second session, after the hot&wet beginning of the week. Could not believe to be able to use the crazy heelhook beta Nicky sorted out the day before! Two of the finest pinches ever and highly underrated problem.

Started with the two crimps and the right heel on the jug. Not sure if it's the original start, as I've heard different voices about this topic. Looked like the more logical thing to do, though. Quite hard crimping and pain tolerance at its finest, glad to have sent despite the non-perfect conditions. One problem ticked = one problem erased.

Tried to be like Malc and miserably failed. Pulled hard at least.

Used the very same holds and footholds of the original problem, with a different sequence though. Clearly easier. Is a problem defined by the beta or by a start and a finish? Maybe only the sheriff could answer.

Funny problem after all.

A first powerful compression move between sick pinches and toehooks, followed by three easier but tricky ones -a ~7B sitstart in itself- lead you to the 6C standing start featuring sharp but positive holds, slightly traversing to the left. Had to dig deep to fight against my pumped forearms, still unrecovered from yesterday's beastmaker session. Maybe easier with prime conditions, even though I think this one lies more into the 7B+ grade than into the 7B. Pretty desperate ascent though.

Brilliant problem with a flowing lower part and a cool last crux move, which gets easier the taller you are. Not even close to what a 8A should be, in my opinion. Considering the effort and what I think my shape these days is, I think 7C it's appropriate. One of the best problems I've seen in Silvretta.

Supercontrived problem, to be done without the good holds on the right. Start on the low crimps, then off to a nice wide left hand pinch and finally straight up to the good ledge with your right hand. Follows an easy topout. Hard to know which holds are/are not allowed if you can't speak to a local climber, who happened to be there today. Very good moves anyway, even though the problem itself doesn't make much sense.

Kinda suprised myself on this FA, as I was tired and not really motivated before we started cleaning the line first envisioned by Totò. Then together with Max, as the three of us started to sort out our own methods, good vibes and psyche kicked in! The problem revolves around a first dynamic move off a wide right hand pinch with a catchy thumb to a positive left hand sloper. Then a knee bar, finally, leads you to an easy topout. About the grade, it feels comparable to other 7B onemovers, but, as usual, time and repeaters will tell. Great session with the homies in good ol' Champorcher, which still reserve some cool projects, it seems.

Awesome roof and compression climb on pinches and crimps, ending with a spicy mantle that took me way too much time to figure out. Lots of stuff still to do here, including some sick projects. Good times!

Overhanging wall, small crimps and different possible methods. Pretty much my style and it took me like 5 short sessions to put together the whole sequence, even though I was sure to send after the first. So I guess 8A could be generally right, BUT I did it yesterday way too easily up to the lip, just to fall on the dirty trivial topout. And then today, completely worked and 3rd day on, I managed to keep it together and send. Given that, I think 7C+ should be right for me, even though for shorter people it can be slightly harder. I need to do more problems around this grade just to be sure on this one, maybe I'm just in a very good shape. Too bad Mismu wasn't there on the send, but the dishes were calling..

Tricky heel-hook move, since I'm a retarded on those kind of stuff. Close on harder problems and overpsyched on new ones. Hope to see a wolf before the fall, but it won't happen. At least I've seen fighting marmots. So sick.

Missed the flash then did it five minutes later. Sharp crimps and a nice pinch, good moves. Alba chiara is next. Galambra mon amour!

Tried once in the heat, sent today in the shade. Could be easier. Tzes Grahm project nearby, hard but possible!

Weird deadpoint moves on a mysterious wall. Will never be climbed again.

Unsure about the grade, as usual on flash ascents. Nice moves between positive crimps on a prow-like boulder. A good day in the woods, my true highlight being the FA of 'Mikey boy', a 3 moves ~7A problem on crimps with a committing dyno to the lip. True stunner. Props to Dario for cleaning the line and the whole area!

Basicly a one move problem, second go from start. It may be easier, quite physical with my beta anyway. Also added a sitstart to the existing 'Liste di collocamento', two moves on sharp crimps with the whole problem that should weight in around 7a/+. Getting motivated for harder lines and long standing projects.

Tried it once ages ago. One session this time. Found a new sick beta that maketh all the difference. Thanks to Macs and Nikanor for the team effort in finding this wicked viper beta. Shitty rock quality but nice compression moves. Maybe it's a FA? Who cares. The Roof project is next, even if I did not even try it. Crazy stuff still to do in this valley.

One cool hard move followed by easier climbing on sharp edges. Could it be 7C? Second ascent maybe? Unanswered questions. Low down start is possible, although it's a bit contrived.

Started on the most logical place, with the big jugs on the left of the boulder. Looks pretty logical and has wonderful grips, but maybe it's not 7C compared to other problems of that grade in the forest. Pretty confused anyway. Lay down start has no sense and is contrived, I think.

One short session. Not my style. Cannot be harder than 7C. Pretty psyched anyway.

A hard one. So classic. STONE LOVE.

Body position's understanding is crucial as well as a good core strenght. A dream come true. Long time since I felt like that on the top of a problem. Perfect 2012 kick-off.

Missed the flash on the 6A ending, then too many tries. Fail.

I cannot understand how it can be 8A. I broke a small intermediate hold but don't think it changes the difficulty. Low sit start looks hard anyway, and legit of course. Let's get real.

Speaking of lowballs, and traverses.. He said.

Superb problem, nice grips. Soft as sin.

Quite sharp holds, potentially easier. Not that bad anyway.

Nice moves, should have flashed.

Epic to say the least. A mental battle falling n times on the last move. Relief more than joy, that's not what free climbing's all 'bout.

So glad. Tried briefly ages ago and declared it my antistyle. Cool moves and a nice pinch. Quite hard for the grade.

Sent in the shadow after figuring out the moves in the sun. Not the best strategy to save the skin. Nice problem though, with a spicy mantle.

Nice little problem and kinda nemesis of mine

Two short sessions. Nice cross move which happens to be the crux. Could potentially be easier.

20+ moves traverse, had to fight my lack of endurance. not the coolest line in the area, but still psyched to have sent. SA.

amazing piece of rock. burly moves until the final jug. instant classic.

Sitstart. The dihedral just below Murano

Easy 7B, much better with the new beta for the last 2 moves, props to Camillo for figuring out. More a traverse than a straight-up problem, 15 moves and pumpy for a 2mover climber as I am! Really cool rock and features.

Sharp rock, nice moves. Un nome una garanzia.

After getting close on the first session, it became a sort of an epic and took me way too much time to ascend... Could very well be 7C with good conditions, anyway it felt harder than any problem of that grade I climbed in the past. So relieved to have finally sent! On the Coup the grace sending train! Props to Gabri for the impressive ascent! Bavona see you next fall.

Small shitty cave.

Very aesthethic problem in the middle of the talus

FA. Really cool compression moves, with toe and heel hooks. Very sharp rock though. Happy to have completed an old project of mine!

Did it from a wrong start. Had to do it again the next day. Pumpy somehow. Not too bad and classic, it seems.

Yummy pocket etc etc... Deadpoint beta. Pretty much my style, hard to grade. Could very well be 7B+. A really nice problem in a dream place!

Some tries to unlock the right beta for me, then I seized the moment and sent! Another anti-style problem completed, hell yeah

Jump onemover. Really weird to grade. Absolutely not my style

Super classic and simply beautiful movement. Could very well be 7A+, hard to tell from a single go. Really wanted to flash it! Syked on the whole line, let's hope for some more cold temps...

What an epic! Got close on the FA a year and a half ago, then dropped the problem. Tried it again with better beta after Gabri's send this winter and got even closer... Today I managed to refine some micro-beta and with very good conditions I finally sent! 4th ascent, big relief. Thanks Nico for spotting and motivation!

Unlucky and unsuccessful trip, even though the weather has been truly amazing. I have to regain confidence on the rock... This was the only tick and wasn't even in my list... Fun climb though. Soft as sin.

Two sessions. One mover. After having found the right balance for the crux move, I did it 7 times in a row punting on the following one... Glad to send before freakin' out! Great rock

Pure power problem. Glad of finally being able to climb something in this style. Improvement!

Two sessions. One low percentage dynamic move, pretty powerful.

Started from the obvious edge and then first move to the left handed crimp. Starting on the left hold is just contrived.

One hour session. The essence of a crimpy problem, just two moves. Very nice!

Few goes after having tried it once a couple of years ago. Brilliant line!

Lowball. Really nice Font style problem.

Body tension throughout the whole problem. Really liked it!

Adds nothing in terms of beauty to the stand, but still great move to the lip!

The left arete on the grit bloc by the river

My classic onemover on smooth river rock

Riverbed bulge with a nice rock-over move and delicate exit

Found a new method, a bit easier. Nice line.

Cool pinches, a sweeping line

Nice moves, a few goes.

Few goes, soft for the grade but a must do.

Technical problem, very nice

Probably 7C+ with my beta, after having tried it with the "new" one 7C can be appropriate

Nice rock, one quite hard move.

One mover, not super hard but low percentage.

Powerful problem on pinches, could you ask for something better?

Possible the best 7B I've ever done and one of the coolest moves!

First ascent. The name says everything. Grit-style problem on river rock. Might be easier.

Second ascent. One really hard move, difficult to give a proper grade. Could be easier if you are tall or really harder otherwise...

Second ascent after Nicky. Nice little problem!

Second ascent after Nicky. One hard move. First go of the second day.

Wonderful prow, short version. True gem.

7B move, then easier mantle. Joint ascent with Nicky and Gabri

Third ascent after Nicky and Gabri. Maybe a bit soft

Third go. One hard move. Not one of the best, but still fun.

First ascent. Direct exit of Le ali dell'angelo.

Climbs really well even though it's a lowball. No way 7C.

First ascent. Technical climbing to a committing mantle.

Long problem, good moves.

Not my style, happy to flash it.

Second go, heel popped on the flash.

One of the best slopey pinches in the forest and unique movement.

Sitstart to Double axel, which is the true line and an absolute must. Adds some easy moves.

3rd go, suited me perfectly I guess. Could very well be easier. Sent before the starting crimp break.

Super classic. Did it with the jump beta, no heel or toe hook. Unique.

My hardest to date. Very technical and subtle body placement. Original beta. Great moment in my climbing life!

Second go from start, soft for tall people

Few goes. Being basicly a one mover I think it can be hard 7B

Nice moves, a few goes. 7B feels more appropriate than 7C

Original start. A bit of a personal epic... solo mission once again. It felt harder than any 7B+ I've done.

A few goes. Used a completely different beta due to many wet footholds.

Potentially even easier for tall people.

Soft for tall people.

One move wonder. Lowball.

Nice wave-like rock! Soft for the grade. Sent in a few goes, in the middle of my weight training... Had to fight until the end as I was so pumped!

Two moves. Did it second go on a supposed-to-be rest day. No way 7C. Almost fell on the dirty topout.

3rd go, blew the flash like a punter! 7B in the new guide, I agree

Feet first to the lip! Lamprecht style

3rd go of the day after some tries in a previous session months before. Wonderful movement

Lowest possible start. Soft.

Original grade of 7C was due to contrivance, using all the holds it feels more like 7B. And nicer by the way.

Like 10 tries over 2 sessions. Could be a good standard for the grade, although it might be easier with the beta for tall people that I used.

Second go from start. Suited me perfectly!

One strange movement

Right version of "Impressioni di settembre"

First ascent. Very cool prow. Could be 7C... who knows?

One hard move

First ascent with Nicky, really nice prow with cool pinches. Too bad it's a drop-off

Extremely fingery problem, pain tolerance is needed as the name suggests. Soft for the grade but really nice! The 8A+ on the left still eluded me...

Two days. Lowball but very good moves and droppable mantle.

Two moves, very crimpy. Good one and pretty hard too!

The hard part is avoiding the dab. Lowball.

Cool and sharp blueish volcanic rock

Crimping at its best.

A lot of tries here and there during the years, then all of a sudden it just went down. Now I can do laps on it...

Fingery lowball

Climbed it the pussy's way aka right toe hook. Slightly harder than the original maybe

Strange compression egg

Very good one, maybe easier with some better beta

Low quality rock but good moves and somehow scary topout

Perfect conditions, end of a long siege and a dream come true. Iconic problem.

Did not do the dyno, I used the sloper on the right instead. A bit more technical maybe.

Onemover, weird. Sitstart looks desperate

Team effort in cleaning the line and finding the beta. Really nice wall.

Solo mission as usual.

Clearly suited me perfectly.

Struggled a bit to keep the heel on!

Infamous mantle, lowball at its finest

Technical moves to a quite hard mantle.

One hard move. Hard to believe it can be more than 7A+.

One big move then sharp grattons. Not the best line but fun.

Body tension, nice and forgotten wall.

After failing many times at the lip encounter, I almost lost my faith when everything clicked. Another super classic and must-do in the forest.

Not really worthy.

My first of the grade. Considering that the standing start could very well be 7C, I think it deserves the grade. A turning point for me, where I reconsidered what could be my limits.

Class! And hard for the grade.

Small fingery traverse

My second of this grade, two days after the first. Happy moment!

My first 7B+, which is actually more like 7A+/B