Kaarel Kivisalu

Really close to dropping it but I probably used a terrible beta.

Surprisingly difficult.

2nd go, dyno to the top, no right arete. Probably harder for shorter people.

2nd go. Missed a good foothold at the start due to darkness on the flash go.

The difficulty depends on where exactly you start and go.

Both directions.

No pads between the tree and the boulder.

First go.

One of the best in Estonia, it definitely deserves more attention. Found an easier beta compared to Shorikov's beta (right hand to the sloper, then bumping it to a small crimp from a left undercling).

3rd go. A few intro moves into the ~6B+ crux to a good rest, an easier boulder after the rest (maybe f5+). No chance of onsight/flash today, not used to finding and using those poor feet quickly. Could have gone 2nd go but I tried a different beta and also forgot some parts.

At least 2 grades easier than Mikrotiplu for me. Nice slab into juggy overhanging climbing. It could be 3 stars if the overhang were before the slab.

2nd go. Tried it as a warmup thinking it was a 6a. Enjoyed it more on the second go but it was still tricky.

Nice slightly overhanging sustained climbing.

Maybe I climbed too much on the right side but definitely easier than some other 6a climbs.

In approach shoes.

I have climbed Pieniä Askole before so not a true onsight but it did feel like one.

Really nice balancy climbing. Did also the ss moves.

First move felt really hard for the grade. Indoor style but a lot sharper.

In a light rain

Used the heel-toe cam. Felt really hard until the send go when it felt easy. Probably easier than 7A.

Nice compression moves. Felt easy for the grade, the beginning and the top part had similar difficulty for me.

Did it quickly after the sit start. One move is different but overall a bit easier. Maybe should be upgraded but I didn't try with the best conditions.

2 sessions (+ 1 session 2 years ago for the stand start). Felt around 1 grade harder than Someone's pickle. Maybe they all should be upgraded but I didn't try with the best conditions. I also haven't tried many other hard routes recently to compare. Direct exit might also be possible.

Used the left big sidepull but kept my body where the line goes. Top with the crimp rail on the right. A lot easier if you go to the left.

Sit start from a plastic bag. Started with only one hand as I couldn't reach with both. Used the big block for feet (possible without but harder).

Soft

Felt harder than 6C but it was a hot day...

One of the best compression problems I have climbed.

Probably easier in better conditions.

Started on the lip, 1st move was to the big jug.

Sent the longer traverse and no hands version.

Tried it with a group for a long time, went first go with the right beta.

Second ascent?

Found a better beta with Kristjan this time. Feels around 1 grade easier than other hard routes in Estonia (Chifundo, Eesti Mandala, Sirocco...). Nice moves but not the best rock quality and location.

Flashed the overhang (with FA beta), then dropped the slab twice... Similar in difficulty to Eesti Mandala and Sirocco stand. Without the slab probably only 7A for me.

Harder than "99 problems but this ain't one".

Technical and tensiony but not that hard physically. Probably a bit harder (not more than 1 grade) than Eesti Mandala but I haven't climbed it recently. Not harder than 7A+ for me. I also did the low start moves but was not able to link it, they probably add a grade.

First go of the day. Maybe I have tried it before but I am not sure.

I think I topped out a bit earlier than the line shows. The holds definitely were not too obvious.

I did "Possible line!" first but the top part is easy anyways. Felt quite fingery for a 5 but maybe some holds were hidden by moss.

I thought it was harder than 6C before I sent it, but now I am not so sure anymore. Really nice movement. It was one of the hardest boulders mentally for me as there were so many mosquitos and I forgot to bring a repellant.

3rd ascent

In flip-flops.

Used the lower part of the crack, then did the lower version of the traverse in the Baju-Baj cave. Probably 1 Font grade harder and deserves 1 less star than Route 66.

Did the big move to the sidepull on the send go. Tried also the mono beta and the left pocket beta but they seemed harder for me.

Second go. Pumpy and quite sustained. Started to top out but got scared (no pads below too) and climbed down.

Barefoot

Felt quite easy to me, meybe it's just my style. Left heelhook and then beach whale to the top.

On a warm day, probably a soft 7A+ compared to the other boulders I have tried in Font.

Barefoot

Struggled on this one quite a bit. After finding a good beta went on the first go.

Really happy with the flash, the first of the grade. The topout felt really hard, could be a soft 7A+ too.

Just wanted to check out the holds of Le Lépreux direct, seemed easy enough to get up barefoot...

Static beta. Intended to just try the first move (barefoot), ended up topping out to the left with the orange arrows as I had no idea where the route went. Scary and high...

Definitely harder for shorties.

Finally figured out the top for this version (no crack at the top). I think the start is better with the big rail (not yet marked in this topo)

Eliminated the top edge before top.

Started with left hand on the slightly off vertical sidepull and right on the big crimp. Top out slightly to the left.

Climbed it twice as it was so nice. Very indoorsy.

2nd go.

2nd go, slipped at the start

2nd go, falling on this route was not pleasant.

2nd go

Completely wet

Start with left on the microcrimp and right in the pocket

Nice delicate moves. The top felt hard for 6B+.

2nd go

2nd go

2nd go

Easier version

In approach shoes.

Very nice. Did also all of the moves starting from the right hand pocket but was not able to link it together (felt around 7A+-7B but I might have been tired).

2nd go

Jumped to the crack from the ground

Jumped from the horizontal crack to the first jug, maybe not the intended jump.

2nd go, slipped on the first try.

Tried other route before, first try of this route.

Grade for the stand start from the crimp high up. Tried also the lower version, did all the moves but was not able to link. The lower version felt around 7A-7A+ but it was 25 °C and sunny. A really nice boulder.

Flashed it as falling did not seem pleasant.

2nd go

Was able to reach the jug from the start. Going to the jug from a lower start does not make the boulder significantly harder.

2nd go

Really nice jamming.

Sit start

Reached the right hand pinch from sit start. Top part was quite sketchy with only one pad. Edit 12.08.2023: did the proper start now, felt around a grade harder than starting directly from the big hold.

Sit start is possible too but a bit harder.

Is pain included in the grade?

Probably easier than 3 but 27crags doesn't allow such grades.

My hardest boulder so far. Sent in just a session after trying the moves last season. Really cool boulder.

2nd go.