Jamie Gatchalian

i thought v7 was fair for this thing. despite being dug out, it has really, really, really good movement. one of the best lines on guanella pass in my opinion

That first move is a doozy.

So good! 7 or 8 redpoint goes, 3rd or 4th ascent. Crazy pumpy. Happy to not have to walk up that hill again! One of the best of the grade in clear creek

A few tries, 12d seems fair. Horribly chipped and drilled, but it's fun. Whatever, it's climbing...

Very good route! 4th ascent. Cool movement, power, and some bad knee scum trickery. Great addition to clear Creek. Some are calling this 13b, could be as easy as 12d, I really don't know. I'm splitting the difference and calling it 13a. Felt good to climb something new and somewhat difficult, grade-wise. Back in the game!

fun jug hauling, weird start

2nd go. tried to warm up on it, but the fingers just weren't ready to crimp. fun route, fairly techy through the middle.

1st redpoint burn, 3rd time on the route. Fun boulder problem. Soft in the grade, maybe 12c?

tiny little hold that i had to yard on through the crux. cool little boulder problem, though. 5 tries, in a day.

So pumped at the top! Hardest to date, first 8b. 2nd ascent, i believe.

Lightweight 13c, about the same as sweet inspirations. That boulder problem at the top of sonic youth is significantly harder after this climbs crux. And just like sweet inspirations, took it to the anchor the first time I actually linked through the crux

2nd go. really fun moves out the roof. just a somewhat roundabout way to get to it. soft in the grade.

4 goes. 13a seems fair. Quick ninja sesh before the Bove weddin'

Really good! Thanks for bolting it Kimball! Shoes made me have a breakthrough...had to wear pointier toed shoes so as to fit inside a small and narrow pocket. Hard for me, 9 or 10 times on the route, 4 or 5 redpoint burns. Psyched!

post breakage. no question as to whether or not this is 13a anymore. would be 5 stars anywhere

3 goes, hard for the grade. very inobvious and tenuous climbing

soft 13a. great movement, super fun crux, and you get to climb pretty far off the deck. excellent route, back in the game, baby! 3 tries.

contrived, but good. seemed hard for v7. sent in a day.

not as good as the kind, but still not bad. has just a few harder entry moves. 2nd go.

great problem! fun open-handed goodness.

lightweight 13b, and better than 'head like a hole'

so psyched to have redeemed myself from the last move punt on monday.

hard.

fun problem, 2nd go. blew the top out on the onsight due to bad route reading

given 7b in the guidebook. seemed really soft, even for boulder canyon.

about the same in difficulty as 'government issue', maybe slightly easier. again, quite pumpy.

pumpy. did the 'flaming arrow' start to helicopter. that downclimb is not insignificant!

good eliminate

first v9

3rd go. fun little route, the roof is definitely cool

very enjoyable climb, good warmup for the hard stuff. public enemy is sick!!!!!

2nd go. great route, glad i finally got on it. pretty psyched for the first day back at shelf

not a bad little climb, def had to pull to get to the slot at the crux

fun manufactured or enhanced climbing. really powerful crux on this one. double 8a send day with apocalypse. 8 tries, i believe

to the first chains, 4th try. double 8a send day with charleston choss! this line is brilliant, with such varied climbing. need to wrap up the extension.

after a storm of biblical proportions. typical minimum crag climbing

3rd go, in a day. fun roof.

soft. 2nd go. triple 5.13 send day with toxic turkey and sprout

pure endurance roof climbing with big moves

2nd go. committing first move, and bouldery for the first few bolts. didn't use any kneebars.

2nd go. felt super slick and buttery the first try. i think the humidity went WAY down for the second go.

first of the grade! hardest i have ever worked on a climb. and the most rewarding. epic process.

4 goes, lots of compression and kneebar shenanigans

great route! boulder problem, rest, boulder problem, rest, etc. amnesia onsighted it first try this year, after several attempts at it last year. i guess my fitness has improved, didn't use the kneebar rest

4 times on the route, got it first redpoint go. powerful and thin. scary clip after the crux. sent it faster than i expected to.

3 goes. that boulder problem was hard. seemed unnecessarily runout, but worth doing.

onsight. great new addition! def one of the best of the grade in the canyon

soft 8a, but the 2 boulder problems on this thing are really good! 6 goes.

3 goes. fun rock climbing.

4 goes. i believe this route is very overlooked. one of the better ones of the grade i have been on in rifle

Hardest one on that side of the cave, excluding orgasmo. with all the broken holds, def not 11c/d anymore.

fun route with some inobvious holds

got confused in a few spots. had some nice long pulls

soft, pure enduro climbing. 2nd go.

5 goes. it's nice to have half of the route wired from doing rucksack wanderer and the diggler.

another good warmup at the pipe

barely made it up after 3 burns on la confianza. felt crazy hard, was pumped the entire way!

4 goes. gymnastic and dynamic shenanigans. my favorite on that side of the cave.

good warmup, probably the best one at the pipedream

fun crux. kinda soft.

another good warmup, just the right amount of pump

it was nice to have beta as to which cobbles to grab

solid 12d

my 2nd route in maple. great endurance route

in a day

easier from the obvious matched undercling, felt v8 this way.

2nd go. thin, sustained, and very thought-provoking. now one of my favorites at shelf.

crazy good fun complete with some pockets, jugs and giant huecos.

endurance 12a, and a whole lotta fun

2 days over 2 years, maybe 5 tries. pretty bad sandbag at 12a in my opinion

kinda pulled it outta my ass. super fun and continuous. i was on route for ~20 mins.

thought this was the 11b at first. would be way better if not for all the bat poo.

5 goes, 3 days. sent it on my last climbing day, 4th day on. great way to end the trip. so much steep climbing!

enduro climbing! had to sit facing away from the wall with my ipod in to preserve my onsight attempt.

to the second anchor. pure enduro climbing. if you're not on a jug, you've strayed!

great fun, a good surprise. follow the pockets!

fun slopey, pinchy, pockets!

another typical undertow wall climb. paddle on edges!

many tries, many failures. this one was hard for me, felt more like 13b than a, especially with all the broken holds. so glad to not have to walk across that hillside again!

2nd go. did as 1 single pitch, felt like an easy 12. so techy, my anti-style!

2nd go, pinkpoint. hardest trad lead, even-though i didn't place the gear. still psyched!

2nd go. shoulda flashed. sick route, though. so steep, and such good holds, just long pulls between them. if you climb this grade, climb it!

amnesia onsight. got on it once before. much more fun than i remembered, lots of variety.

very awkward, but it did get me warmed up

3 goes, 2 days. sustained and fun.

3 goes, 2 days. climbs way better than it looks. fun power crux!

sustained

fun route, difficult at the top. 2 5.12 onsights in a day at rifle, hot damn!

9 or 10 goes. i don't know how anyone could call this 12d...

really fun route, with good holds. def adding it to the warmup routine.

not very fun

ok route. 6 goes over 3 seasons. always got on it at the end of the day, whilst completely smoked. amazing what being fresh does for sending.

2nd go. fun jugs to a strenuous boulder problem.

first rifle 13! 7 goes, 3 days. such a fun route, with some weird kneebar trickery.

6 goes, 3 days. such fun movement. one of the best routes i have been on, regardless of grade or style. psyched!

this route flows really nicely i went left at the crux. blake and shawn sprayed me down.

6 goes, 3 days. inferior to debaser, but still pretty fun. fell off the jugs at the top a few times. yeah, i'm that guy.

8 goes, 4 days. that boulder problem at the top is hard. and i almost blew it going for the tooth below the 2nd draw. probably 13a at any other crag.

slipped off after the crux, shoulda flashed. blaming it on being tired from old yellar the day before. great route though, one of the best in the flatirons.

holy hell this thing was hard. very subtle yet powerful climbing. i wouldn't bat an eye if people called this 8a+

6 goes, 2 days. super fun route, worth the time and effort. kinda soft.

2 goes, another fun primo wall linkup. had to climb something else to take my mind off the fact that public solitude remains slippery and elusive.

4 goes, 2 days. bottom half was pretty dialed in from my burns on 'squeezing my will'. top crux made me earn it! not even close to 8a+

4 goes, 2 days. first try today. climbed better than 'sucking' in my opinion. worthy.

shelf road curse is over! first .12 down there. 3 goes, 2 days.

2nd go. cool movement.

killed my desire to climb! 7 or 8 goes spread out over 2 years. not as classic as everyone made it out to be.

2 days, maybe 6 or 7 burns to send. shoulder wrecker! fun moves, though.

5 goes, 2 days. brilliant line...pockets and crimps, crimps and pockets.

3 goes, such a sick climb. scary slab, jug, jug, jug. CRUX! jug, jug, jug. clip chains.

hardest onsite to date. great route, even if it is a little on the soft side

3 goes, 2 days. fastest i've sent the grade. lots o' crimps up there.

3 goes, first this trip. climbs so much better than chainsaw

Slightly less quality rock than hippocrite. Sharp

boulder problem to jugs. again.

felt hard for me, with long moves at the crux. 6 goes, a few days

thanks for the beta frank

hardest of the 3 12s. i didn't really fit the knee bar, made it tough.

first go this trip, 2nd go overall. moves flow on this one, more so than the other 2 12s on the wall

5 goes in a day, deceptively pumpy. very fun, and seemed hard for the grade.

sent first try today, warming up. had absolutely no expectations. 8 or 9 redpoint burns, over 4 days.

great boulder

low percentage move.

would be a tough onsight. thanks to ander for the running beta

powerful! did it in a day. six goes, 10th pitch of the day.

3 goes.

4 goes, powerful moves on good holds.

sick route

Best 12a I've been on in the front range. Great movement

powerful.

techy and balancy movement. solid 7b.

first 8a! 8 goes over 2 days. very physical and dynamic.

birthday send! did it in an afternoon. people say v8 for the sit start. don't know about that.

thin techy crux...felt 7b+

dropknee for crux dyno was key. great positioning and exposure.

Very balancy crux

4 goes, very bouldery.

2nd go.

reachy and really hard for me. one of the hardest 7c's around.

top crux was super stretchy. great line, though.

kinda soft, but super fun

2nd go, end of the trip. fun crux, and good holds to the anchors

no real crux, but the pump definitely stacks up. great route!

great route, though short lived

so good

no hard moves, just pumpy. got talked into taking the victory whip.

first try today, 2nd overall. felt easy, 3 harder pulls, then it's over

first try this trip. projected it several years ago when i wasn't very strong. classic!

fun traverse

chipped, but fun.

first 7c

4 goes, first .13

2nd go

tough boulder problem to start

2nd go

took a few tries to figure out the move to the good crimp below the roof, but fun nontheless.

2nd go. soft.

2nd go. what fun, unexpected send. very sustained

Fell twice while clipping anchors. Holy hell, pumpy for 40ft of climbing.

so fun!

2nd go. soft.

definitely a highball boulder problem. solid v4 /v5. regardless, pretty damn fun.

5 goes, super fun route. one of my favorites at the grade. kinda soft

such high feet

such a joke and a sandbag at v4

so good, especially for flagstaff.

really tough start for the shorties

one of the best in the front range

first v8

direct start, also known as 'flaming arrow', which has always been a v6

classic! first v7, sent in a day

fun route, but doesn't compare to 'great escape'. well worth doing, though.

2nd go. soft?

my first rifle .12!

4 goes, in a day.

soft

first v5