Eliot Heath

Great route, one the most enjoyable climbs at the grade

There’s so much overlap between this route and Lange Længde, and Ventetiden, that it’s a little hard to know if you’re on the route. It’s pretty fun to route read, there’s a decent amount of good gear. Perhaps not the most simple beginner route simply because it’s easy to find yourself on more challenging terrain. The upper section is harder than the grade if you go directly over the last lip, it’s much easier going around the left side and then up. No bolted anchors.

Well protected cam placements, worth having doubles of the bigger sizes. Upper slab is better than it looks, take your time finding the good protection, and avoid going left along the grassing ledge, lots of loose rock. Lots of trees on top for anchor building, and easy walk off.

Super cool route. Low boulder problem crux, then fun traversing. Not hard for the grade, but would confidently give it 7a.

First try, but had already done parts of the route. Really fun link up though, interesting climbing on good holds the whole way.

Followed on back-rope to clean. Pretty cool traverse.

This isn't a real route, you can't protect it properly at all. This is just a scramble to get up and down to the top of the cliff.

Best beginner route at Carstens in my opinion. Fun climbing at the grade, and lots of good protection options.

Really nice climbing and protection for the grade. Lower section requires some small nut placements, but they’re great once they’re found. Upper section is very well protected, cool slightly overhung top out. Very nice for the grade.

Climbing is nice enough, upper section is very easy. Protection on the slab was a bit fiddly and sparse, ended up being run out enough for a ground fall due to a poor horizontal crack placement.

Awesome route, amazing gear

Great climbing for the grade, lots of parallel cracks, accidentally got a blue cam stuck though so it ended up being an expensive route

Great beginner friendly route with lots of stable position to place lots of gear

Fun climbing on good holds, not a lot of protection in the lower section, what there is is good and the mid and upper sections have good options

Climbed the first 10m with trad protection, but realised quickly that I didn’t have enough small nuts to protect the rest of the route. I wouldn’t recommend as a particularly enjoyable trad route, due to the shallow, flared crack placements and nearly non-existent feet to place from. It’s a smeary, compression style of slab climbing that doesn’t leave many stable positions from which to faff with gear.

Trad climbed, requires just a couple of cams

Lovely little trad line, kinda nice it can be sport climbed too, but a few perfect cam placements and it’s over too soon

As a multipitch to reduce drag on the upper section. Bottom half is good but nothing amazing, upper section was really fun for the grade

Top rope as second, starting on the left crack. Climbing was tricky for the grade, and while there was some good gear, the stances weren't always chill

Top rope as second, the protection wasn’t great though, especially low down where the crack is widest

Great route! Meandering, exposed and well protected. Super fun little adventure

Great beginner trad lead, lots of great protection options and placement positions, while still feeling like a real climb

Nice climbing, felt slightly more of crux than Pettson to the left, but less sustained and pumpy overall

Fantastic route! The lower section is more technical, with larger moves on good holds higher up. This hasn't been available on past trips, as it's often wet in rainier seasons, so very happy to finally try it.

Technical slab climbing, felt noticeably more difficult than other 6a+ climbs in the area

This wasn’t in our guidebook and we thought it was the 5+ warmup. Ended up being a pretty sketchy and unenjoyable climb.