🚶♂️ 1-5' - ⛰️ 1400 MSL - 🧭 NESW - ☀️ boulders are quite sunny
This topo groups the boulder area and some small sport sectors at the slopes of the Sergent wall. Sergent is the most famous and frequented wall of the valley, composed of solid granite gneiss rock with amazing cracks.
The boulder area features the same great rock and the environment is peaceful by the Orco river. Approach is short and easy.
There are more than 70 problems and a tens of sport routes.
This area is well known for its amazing highballs: the first is the iconic Kosterliz crack, 7 meters problem freed in the 70’s. Then we have 29 dots, a crazy 14 meters highball freed by Bernd Zangerl in 2015 and repeated by the strong Gabriele Moroni in 2019. Bravirabi boulder is another highball that concentrates many lines with difficulties over 8A.
Another historic line is the Fissure du panetton, a perfect crack freed by Patrick Edlinger, that today can only be trad climbed.
The area's average altitude is 1400 meters above sea level. It is possible to climb well during the whole year. Summer temperatures are mitigated by the river and wind presence.
Did you get enough info about this sector? Well let's spend some words about the environment that hosts us.
Valle dell’Orco (Orco’s valley) is clearly a stunning area for mountain lovers, well known for its unspoiled nature and its huge amount of climbing routes that run on perfect slabs and amazing cracks.
The Orco river has carved this narrow valley from West to East, through the Levanne massif (South) and the Gran Paradiso Park (North). The valley is about 6 km long, rising from an altitude of about 600 meters above sea level up to 2500. From the valley floor it is possible to admire the summits of Gran Paradiso (4061 m.a.s.l.) and the three Levanne (Levanna Centrale 3619 m.a.s.l.). There is also a nice artificial lake called Ceresole lake.
There are plenty of paths to practice with snowshoes, to mountain-biking or simply walking. One could also find severe hiking trails, requiring a lot of effort and good physical preparation. The valley is equipped with many alpine refuges.
During the winter, the coast of Ceresole lake turns into a cross-country ski track, while downhill skiing can be practiced in Chiapili and Locana on Alpe Cialma.
There is good news also for fishing lovers: there is a nice reserve that is open from the last Sunday of February until November.
Ok, stop to the valley description digression and let's go back to climbing.
Valle dell’Orco is really famous for its amazing trad climbing routes. What makes these routes so beautiful? It is the rock! The rock is the super high quality gneiss of Gran Paradiso area that formed nice crags featuring compact slabs and perfect cracks.
Nowadays, alongside great classic routes, one can find also more modern lines of great commitment and also short and well-equipped climbs. And there is certainly no shortage of beautiful bouldering areas with a crazy amount of problems!
The area is often cold thanks to high altitude (1000+ meters), so the Summer turns out to be a good season for climbing here.
Climbing in Valle dell’Orco is improving every year and still has a lot of potential. We kindly ask you to respect the rock and the nature. Help us to keep this beautiful valley clean!
