Description

🚶‍♂️ 5’ - ⛰️ 900 MSL - 🧭 N-E-S-W - ☀️ according to walls orientations

Today we have just arrived in Val di Mello, the best climbing area of Lombardia and an appreciated destination for nature lovers.
What brought you this far? Well, we have no doubts, Val di Mello is a really famous mecca for climbers! Far from mass tourism, this granite kingdom is the place where important pages on hiking and bouldering have been written in the past years. Suffice it to say that one of the largest and most important bouldering festivals has been held here for many years, the Melloblocco!

The valley is one of the ramifications of the Val Masino, which splits off from the Valtellina
close to the village of Ardenno and stretches northwards to the border with Switzerland.
Its unspoiled nature, the characteristic houses, stables and barns, the pristine woods and pastures and breathtaking granite walls, make this place a genuine natural open air ethnographic museum. Going from about 600 to 1100 meters above sea level and thanks to the huge amount of sectors, the area allows to climb the whole year, even if there are best conditions during the mid seasons and the winter.

100 meters long, 60 meters wide and 35 meters high are the dimensions of the massive Sasso Remenno fell in Val Masino from the mountain above centuries ago.
The volume of about half a million cubic meters makes this monolithic the largest in Europe.
It is considered a rock climbing gymnasium, where climbers have the opportunity to choose different levels of difficulty, both for first-timers and experts.
Sasso Remenno and the other boulders in the nearby area feature more than 250 climbing routes ranging from 3 to 9a. All sides exposures and altitude of about 900 meters make it possible to climb here during the whole year, even if we suggest coming from October to April to enjoy the best temperatures.
Approach is short and easy, and the crag base is generally really comfortable. Equipment is good.
Remenno’s most frequented wall is the South, grouping many easy to medium routes (from 4a to 6b). West wall suits best the first-timers with low grade routes.
The North and North-East sides are the most challenging with their explosive overhangs. Routes here are athletic, requiring power and pure strength, and reach difficulties of 9a. Some holds are chipped here.

Alongside these great classic routes, one can also find a beautiful bouldering area with almost 170 problems from 3 to 8B+. The excellent granite makes these lines really interesting!
Drum'n'Tano is one of the hardest problems of the valley.

The summit of Sasso Remenno is a grass covered comfortable plateau that can be reached through different climbing routes. We highly suggest to top there at least once!
Respect the rock and the nature, Val di Mello is where the heart of rock climbers and bouldering enthusiasts beats!

History

Sasso Remenno is the largest glacial erratic in Europe, which fell in Val Masino centuries ago. This massive amount of rock has attracted climbers since the 80’s. The first climbing movement had protagonists Merizzi, Boscacci, Gugiatti, Miotti, Guerini, Masa, who explored the first logic lines without the use of spits. Lately many routes were developed by Bianchini, Bruseghin, Fanchi, Pigoni, Cucchi, Rovelli, Ongaro, Marchetti, Pedeferri, Colli, … Among them, the honorable mention is Simone Pedeferri, main climber and equipper of Remenno. Together with Sergey Shaferov, he also first ascended some of the hardest lines (up to 8c+/9a).
Sasso Remenno and its boulder area boast the first 8c (Spirit Walker) route and 7B+ boulder problem in Italy.