Locating at the other side of the strait of Ströömi, Pohjavuori is quite far away when compared to the crags at the Kustavi main island. But the trip itself to Pohjavuori is essential part of the experience: to estimate from the clouds whether is going to rain or not while waiting the cable ferry at Kivimaa, drive the Great Post Route without hurry, stop at the Old School of Vartsala to get some delicious donuts and coffee before continuing to the destination, Pohjavuori - the treasure of South Vartsala climbing.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/pohjavuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
