Quite a mighty and huge crag on the eastern shore of Åmunsfjärd with many loose and ugly but at the same time impressive overhangs/roofs. Here and there scattered between all the rotten parts, however, you will find one and another nice or even excellent wall or route. With the aim set on these, this crag is definitely worth one or more visits depending on the grades you climb.
Östnorabergets' main attraction is probably Pelarväggen, with its conglomerate-like structure and towering roof formation higher up on the face. Here you will find two-three high-quality bolted routes as well as a number of traditionally protected climbs. The left part of the round and bulky quite appealing French wall has a couple of difficult and steep sport routes. On the right part, there are some slightly overhanging easier routes that are a bit loose and ugly looking, but the climbing itself is still quite ok. The smooth and appealing Marylin wall located farthest to the right is of good quality and here are a couple of fun overhanging bolted routes that must not be missed. The sector Förtsta taket is good if you want to climb easier bolted slab routes, and some routes in this sector have also been renovated (2016). The small and steep Tanga wall with a couple of short roof climbs is also fairly freshly brushed (2020).
There are still some routes with older bolts and anchors that are probably not in the best condition. As usual, the moss grows quite quickly on the slabby parts while the overhanging sections manage much better. A brush can always come in handy.
If you park as you should, the walk to the crag is about 1 km along an easy-to-walk asphalt/gravel road, and it should not be a problem to take the children to the crag. As usual, when it comes to crags in Stockholm, there will most likely be ticks in the grass.
Environment:
West-Southwest. Mostly open for the sun higher up on the crag, but down at the ground there are a lot of trees and sly here and there. Although some shorter routes may be in the shade, hot summer days are probably not ideal. The best time is most likely in spring before the leaves bloom. The difficult routes to the left on Franska väggen stay in the shade until about 13:00-14.00 in the afternoon.
