The area is access sensitive

Grabbed from http://sloper.climbing.nl/?p=974 :

"To ALL the magic-hoppers… its even getting uglier and uglier. just too many people up there this summer. and like everywhere else with a lot of people the probability of getting some idiots there is rising and rising. some dont pay the camping, just camp “wild” in the wood, litter the place, agressive against the campgroundwarden, dont dare to say hello to anybody, no respect for nature, no respect for anything…. if the number of people (and the attached problems) are growing next year like it did this year, we have a good chance we will get serious problems with the local community and that everything will be shut down.

SO its VERY important that IF you see BAD behaviour —> to tell te people that they are wrong. very often they just dont know it better cause they have no idea about living in and with nature at all!!!"

"Information The bouldering area is placed shortly before the village of Ausserferrera on a sealevel of 1250m on a step southeast forrest hang. It was found in 1999 from the developers whom cleaned the first lines. The wild romantic forrest reach because of the perfeft rock quality international populariry. Until today Magic Wood counts arround 500 problems up to 8c+ with potential for more. Developer Thomas Steinbrugger, Bernd Zangerl, Jack Müller and other locals. How to get to the blocks From Bodhi Camping over the bridge in just 5min. to the first Boulders. Please note that bouldering is just allowed in the marked zone. Everything over the upper bridge and below Bruno Block (Never Ending Story, Supernova…) is not in the boulderarea. Please just use the parking arround the campground. For your own security we recommend not to walk on the street to the upper bridge. Rock/Character Crimps, Slopers and Pinches out of premium gneiss you will find on the athletic boulders. Slaps, step roof or highballs need a lot of power and a strong will. The landing area is mostly rocky and blocked. As more crashpads as better. After intens rain some boulders dry really quickly…and the rest one by one. After 1-2 days the most is clean and dry. Please pay attention to the following points! With this you can help to avoid problems and to preserve the naturalness and beauty of this valley – thank you! Wild camping is strictly prohibited! Als to stop overnight with your bus or camper outside the campground will be seen as it and reported at the police. Respect the nature! The waste buckets and toilets are available for you: Please spare the landscape and the wild animals of your emissions. Fires are allowed at the official fireplace only. Parking area at bodhi climbingcamping is for guests only. Visitors of Magic Wood please use parking area at the entrance of the bouldering area. Attention: The real climbing area “Magic Wood” is in a zone of rockslide and water level can rise strongly at any time! Keep in mind, no Bouldering outside the Zone Plan (see at camping notice board) Thank you for your cooperation. We wish you a nice stay and accident free cranking days. For questions or in case of problems please contact the staff of bodhi climbing. Overnight stay Direclty at the gate to Magic Wood is the small Bodhi Camping situated, From here you reach the bouldering area in 5 min. Here climbers meet and change beta’s on the fireplace for the next day of cranking. For those who need more luxury can find in Ausserferrera the Restaurant Edelweiss, whom offer overnight stays at the Hotel Generoso. " — team Bodhi Climbing

"Since January 2012 Bodhi Climbing has take over the Gasthaus Edelweiss & Backpackers Generoso. Together with Bodhi Camping which we taken care of the past 3 years, we now can provide a much better service to climbing community. We are building more facilities such as a climbing lounge at the restaurant with Wi-Fi and big TV or a cellphone charging station for everyone to enjoy without cost. Further, we drop the prices of meals and accommodation to reasonable price…The price at Bodhi Camping remains at CHF 5.-/Person/Night. As for the restaurant Edelweiss we are open from 9am on, but of course if you see light earlier from within means we are there and welcome everybody. We close on wednesday if there is no guest at the Generoso.And again, if we are there you are welcome. There will be a website coming up soon about the whole business.www.valferrera.ch " — team Bodhi Climbing

Climbing

99%
Boulder
1%
Sport

Recommended routes

  • La Force Tranquille (V15)
  • Mystic Stylez (V15)
  • Mörderballet (V7)
  • Business time (V12)
  • Grip de Luxe (V7)
  • Hascplättli (V2)
  • La boume de luxe (V7)
  • Believe in two (V14)

We like Magic Wood

Small-6b860019367d
Arjen Haag — almost 2 years ago
Amazing forest, amazing boulders. Wilderness feeling.
Small-156e0f6fbc0f
Kevin Wildrick — almost 2 years ago
Just wonderful. The best trip I've ever had. The blocks are beyond fantastic. It was crowded at the camping place, but the woods felt empty and the vibe was excellent. I didn't notice any problems with misbehavior.
Small-833bf1da7cc2
Simon Hermansen — over 3 years ago
Super quality granite and a lot of hard lines. Okay in the summertime

Listed as favourite by

  • 2 climbers @ 4
  • 2 climbers @ 6a
  • 2 climbers @ 6b
  • 7 climbers @ 6c
  • 7 climbers @ 7a
  • 7 climbers @ 7b
  • 11 climbers @ 7c
  • 14 climbers @ 8a
  • 4 climbers @ 8b
  • 1 climber @ 9b

Nearby crags

We have visited Magic Wood but not listed it as a favourite

Small-475ae8fbf684
Fredrik Sydstrand — about 2 years ago
Good rock, nice forest.
Small-b00082b125d2
Pim Momberg — 2 months ago
Great place
Small-15bdabbc697d
Žiga Janež — 4 months ago
An ideal spot for summer climbing. Magical environment with really nice lines.

Also visited by

  • 1 climber @ 4
  • 3 climbers @ 6b
  • 2 climbers @ 6c
  • 7 climbers @ 7a
  • 3 climbers @ 7b
  • 1 climber @ 7c
  • 4 climbers @ 8a
Climbing is dangerous and not always permitted. By using this site you are agreeing to our terms of use.
feedback