Description

The walls around Freidorf were the birthplace of hard bouldering in the Allgäu. They are still one of the areas with the highest density of difficult problems around here, and probably anywhere in the world, thanks to climbers like Christian and Andreas Bindhammer, Hary Röker and Fabi Buhl.

The Freidorf area contains all the walls that are best reached from the parking lot right on the main road that passes Freidorf along the Rottachberg ("Rottach mountain"), a large conglomerate mountain with numerous small and large rock faces. Other areas on the Rottachberg are the Rottach bouldering area, the bouldering and sport climbing areas around Untermeiselstein (Maiselwände, Rockland, Jesuswandl), the large sport climbing area Falkenstein, the steep walls around Vorderburg and the smaller sport climbing sectors in the forest, such as Haidt and Papperlapapp. Taken together, these contain easily over 1000 boulders and sport climbs.

Climbing and bouldering here happens on a type of conglomerate rock called Nagelfluh. Climbing on Nagelfluh is characterized by often tiny pebbles and pockets that require strong fingers and lots of control in strenuous positions. This means lines are not always obvious, but there is a plethora of possible climbs and combinations, often with interesting moves that take some figuring out. Hard climbs are often centered around tiny two-finger crimps or bad pinches in steep terrain. Many climbs are "board style", but with smaller holds. Climbing here is therefore perfect training to get strong fingers and shoulders.

*Recommended boulders:*
- Herbi (6C+/7A): great, powerful climbing on decent holds.
- Quaddel (7A): a powerful and crimpy benchmark
- Gun Filius (7A+): cool problem up an obvious crack line
- Daunenfluch (7B+): powerful start and quite technical finish, a really good problem
- Crosstalk (7C): not just one of the best lines on conglomerate anywhere, but a great selection of holds and moves
- Full Contact (7C+/8A): technical and crimpy at the start, powerful at the top. Another stunning problem.
- Sidewinder (7C+/8A): often overlooked because it's usually wet, but great technical climbing on small crimps and slopers.
- Monsterball (8A/+): perfect power problem on pockets and wide pinches.
- Frontman (8A+): the obvious line through the center of NePaPla
- Firestarter (8A+/B): small holds, tension, and non-stop hard climbing to the top.
- First Class TickIt (8B/+): the sit start to Frontman might be the best really hard problem around.

History

1) Parkplatzwand:
Climbing here already started some time in the 90's - nobody knows when exactly - but it really took off around 2005 when climbers around Hary Röker started adding hard problem after hard problem. It has long been one of the only areas around where you can be reasonably sure to meet other boulderers on a sunny weekend. Jagun (8B/+) has long been the hardest boulder of the area.

2) Quellwand:
The Quellwand is the wall to the right of the Parkplatzwand, only 2 minutes away. It hosts some of the best boulders in the area, but unfortunately takes very long to dry. Problems here have been developed on and off since around 2008, culminating in the first ascent of Liquid Swords (8B+), which contains ridiculously hard moves on underclings leading into the 8A stand.

3) NePaPla-Wand:
This collection of walls was discovered around 2008 by Andreas and Christian Bindhammer, who developed most of the hard problems here. Fireblocker (8C) and Inkognito (8B+/C), which are currently probably the hardest boulders in the Allgäu, are here. The main wall also hosts some short but worthwile hard sports climbing, including Frontman Deluxe (8c+/9a), one of the best hard lines around.