Description

🧗
At this crag you find many routes in high end grades at one sector. Pure sport climbing at its best. The few easier routes concentrate on classic lines like dihedrals and cracks with a lack of protection.

🌼🌞🍂
This is a typical summer spot. The main wall is faced north and very shady. A small section is faced south, as well, so there's some climbing possible in wintertime.

💧
The steep overhanging routes at "Holzgauer Wand" takes ages to dry off. Better go to the southern located sectors (Toni Schmid/Bauernschmitt/Hammerschmied).
On the other hand the hard overhanging routes stay dry in rain

👶
"Hammerschmiedturm" and right part of "Holzgauer Wand" are very suitable for kids.

🍽🍻🛌
Next Camping is in "Kleinziegenfeld" but since the owner has changed the prices exploded and cameras are watching you everywhere. There are cheaper guesthouses all around.
You can get very good food at "Gasthof Zöllner" at the main road. "Schrepfersmühle" is the closest and offers very good food, as well.

💎 Goodies

medium:
- Reise zum Regenbogen
- Back to the beginning
- Macker

hard:
- Global Beats
- Jazz oder nie
- Mambo Cavallero
- Mephisto
- Highlander
- Hänsel ohne Gretel
- Nimué
- L'eau rage

extreme:
- classified
- Modified

Kleinziegenfeld Süd 2 - Altes Schloss

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦉
The left part of "Holzgauer Wand" is closed from 01.02 until 30.06 because of breeding birds.

🚗
"Kleinziegenfelder Tal" is quite fast accessible from the Motorway A70 between Bamberg and Bayreuth. Leave the motorway towards Burgkunstadt and follow the signs to Stadelhofen/ Burgkunstadt/ Weismain, then turn left towards "Kleinziegenfeld". You will pass the Valley automatically. Parking is on the left 1.3 km after you've left the village "Kleinziegenfeld"

🚶‍♂️

🧗‍♀️ Hammerschmiedturm:
Go back the street towards "Kleinziegenfeld" for 350 meters. There's a small path leading up to the visible tower to your right.

🧗‍♀️Luisenwand:
Take the foot path up the hill passing the boulder with the plate. Go up the gully, the crag is to your left then.

🧗‍♀️Holzgauerwand right and central:
Take the foot path up the hill passing the boulder with the plate and turn left after about 35 meters. The crag is already visible.

🧗‍♀️Toni Schmid Gedenkwand / Bauernschmitt Gedenkwand / Holzgauerwand left:
Go back the street towards "Kleinziegenfeld" for about 240 meters until you see a path to your right leading up the bank. Follow that trail and you'll reach the sectors soon.