"The Buttermilks is a fantasy area of bouldering. When driving into the small town of Bishop, CA, it seems unlikely that there is world class problems tucked away towards the beautiful scenic mountains in the background. Driving to the Buttermilks takes you away from the town, towards the towering High Sierra mountain range in the distance. There is currently no street sign that points to the long dirt road that leads you to the Buttermilks, but trust your gut and let the boulders guide you there. After winding on the dirt road a last bend hides the beautiful bouldering that is the Buttermilks. The towering boulders sit scattered among a hillside. Even if you were not a climber, the immense size of the boulders, and unique rock formations cut from them make you feel as if you are wandering into a land of monsterous creatures, frozen in time. After the initial shock of the beautiful rocks, endless paths cut to infamous boulder problems ranging from VB to V14. The Buttermilks test your true mental strength, as you climb up a V0 to warm up, and the ground becomes dangerously far away, that V0 becomes a whole new problem. The height and movement of each route is so unique and intense that once you have worn your fingers and mind down, and slowly built it up again, the accomplishment when you top out is an explosion of emotion. World class climbers come to the Buttermilks frequently to test their projects, and their highball mental state. The rock is gritty beneath your fingers, leaving only the rugged or taped hands to long days of climbing. But because of the rough texture, sticking to the rock questions your existence as a gecko. Climb in the Buttermilks when it is cold; the friction is great, the snow on the mountains is beautiful, and there are plenty of climbers to warm up to. You can camp directly in the Buttermilk area, even though it is not technically a designated camping area. Just respect the environment, and everyone will be able to wake up to the sunrise casting enormous shadows across the ground from the beautiful boulders. There is also a legitimate camp about 20 minutes from the boulders known as "The Pit." There you will find a designated camp area in a giant pit, nice bathrooms, and a 2 dollar fee per night, per car. The Buttermilks is an amazing place to be. Bring your focus, strong fingertips, many spotters, and even more crash pads. Enjoy the serenity of the landscape and snow covered mountains, the beautiful and colorful sunrises and sunsets, and be humbled by the rocks that are giants among us."
The Grandpa Peabody boulder is the first and biggest boulder you encounter in the Buttermilks. Walk up the clearly defined trail to this impressive boulder. You will notice two definitive lines up the overhanging wall. On the right side is Evilution, on the left is Lucid Dreaming.