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Loaded Biscuit, 8A
Added by Stella Mascari
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Aaron Schneider
2nd ASCENT
2020-05-09
Red point
Had eyed this up for years, especially after McNeil got the FA in Nov 2017. A couple days of work in the fall/early winter were enough for me to suss most of the beta but didn't feel at all close. After building up power endurance through the last couple of months I felt potentially ready. On day 3, a heartbreaking punt left me with a split tip and small flapper, no energy for further attempts. The weather this season has been inSANE and another perfect weather day presented itself the 2nd week of May. Another couple falls on the crux move and I switched the beta utilizing the left toe and knee scum into a left heel, polishing her off the following attempt. 4 days total. With the toe and knee scum this felt hard V11, with the heel hook a bit easier, probably mid range, slightly easier than Dad Bod. This and Woodsdawg (aka Deep Fried) are outrageous -- two world class lines sitting alone, tucked side by side randomly in the woods. The topper to my best spring season, although at the cost of at least 1 finger injury (not from this problem specifically).

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