Description

❄️🌼🌞🍂
Climbing at this crag is actually possible whole year round.
"Jubiläumswand", "Morgenleite" and "Schottersmühler Wand" can get some sun light in the after noon. In summer time the leaves on the trees keep the sectors shady and it won't get too hot. Only "Schottersmühler Wand" is that exposed above the trees so it might get too hot in summertime.
The sectors opposite the river (Riesenburg, Grünbauer and Dohlenwand) are shady and good for spring and autumn. Only one "Altherrenwand" is facing south up here. "Riesenburg" is in the big cave so you might find good condition even in summertime.

💧
"Riesenburg" offers a few steeper routes which should stay dry in heavy rain. Also the overhanging routes at "Obere Dohlenwand" stay dry but can soak after long period rain.
If everything is flooded the best chances to find dry rock after a few hours is "Schottersmühler Wand" or teh left part of "Morgenleite"

💪⚙️
The surface of the rock gets rougher here and the structures offer a big amount of easier routes with interesting full varied climbing not only focused on classic chimneys. Due to the good protection it can get quite busy at this crag.
Furthermore there are a lot of advanced level climbing at "Dohlenwand" or "Grünbauer Gedenkwand" or "Galawand" and "Morgenleite" at the opposite river side. The hardest routes are at "Galawand" and "Riesenburg", while the easiest routes are at "Jubiläumswand".

Beside well protected sport climbing routes in big range of grades you can get a lot of mental traditional routes

👶
The most perfect spot for children is at "Schottersmühler Wand". The access is a gravel road and the base of the sector is quite flat. Just watch for falling rocks! All sectors at the eastern side of the river are still ok with kids, but "Jubiläumswand". Here you have to carry your kid/s as long as they don't walk. The base itself offers a few comfortable spots for picnic and stuff.
All sectors at the western riverside are unsuitable for kids.

🍽🍻🛌
Straight at the parking there's a big lawn at the river where you can have nice picnic as long as the gras is mowed. Please stay on trails if it's not. Easy access to the river is possible, as well, for a quick cool down. Underneath the big lime is a spring with delicious cold water.
Accommodation you'll find in Waischenfeld. Restaurants are in Waischenfeld up north or in Behringersmühle/Gößweinstein down south the river. Hopefully the mill Schottersmühle opens again after corona-lockdown so you'll have a good beer garden close by.

🏊
Swimming pool are located in Waischenfeld and Gößweinstein.

💎 Goodies

Soft:
- Go, Heini Go
- Abendweg
- P. und M. Weg
- Jubiläumsweg rechts
- Nico
- A.L. Weg

Medium:
- Geiersturzflug
- Picolla Stupidezza
- Seven

Hard:
- Napoleon Fritz
- 40 Sekunden Cowntdown
- Dickes B.
- Hinterm Horizont geht's weiter

Extreme:
- Rockabilly
- Härte 10

Routes on Wiesenttal - Schottersmühle Nord
125 sport 24 trad 14 Likes
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Wiesenttal - Schottersmühle Nord

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦅
On this crag climbing at"Obere Dohlenwand" is prohibited from 1.February until 30. of June because of breeding birds. Rest is open all year until there are no signs at the wall.

🚗
This crag is located 750 meter south of the hamlet Doos in the valley of the Wiesent river. Coming from Hollfeld/Waischenfeld drive down St2191 towards Behringersmühle. parking is after the big bend to your left. Approaching from South, drive up Wiesent vally from Behringersmühle and go towards Waischenfeld. Parking is 1 km behind the mill "Schottersmühle" to your right.

There are several parking possibilities close by at the street. At weekends it can get crowded.

🚶‍♂️
Galawand:
Cross the river at the bridge and turn left at the hiking trail. The sector is to your right after 200 meter.

Morgenleite:
Cross the river at the bridge and turn right. Follow the hiking path for 250 meter. there's a foot path to your left leading up to the wall.

Jubiläumswand:
Cross the river at the bridge and turn right. Follow the hiking path for 530 meter. There's a foot path to your left leading up to the wall.

Abendleite:
Cross the river at the bridge and turn right. Follow the hiking path for 600 meter. The sector is just to your left before you pass the house.

Schottersmühle:
Cross the river at the bridge and turn right. Follow the hiking path for 750 meter. The wall is close to the trail to your left.

Risenburg:
Walk down the street towards Behringersmühle for 100 meter. Take the hiking trail across the street. To get to the left part of the sector go straight ahead where the trail turns right. The upper section is in the cave, following the hiking trail up the stairs.

Grünbauer Gedenkwand:
Cross the street and go take the hiking trail. take the small path to your right where the hiking trail makes a left bend. go ahead 70 meter and you will pass the sector.

Altherrenwand:
Cross the street and go take the hiking trail. take the small path to your right where the hiking trail makes a left bend. Before you reach the sector "Grünbauer Gedenkwand" go up the hill to the left. you already see the wall.

Dohlenwand:
Cross the street and go take the hiking trail. take the small path to your right where the hiking trail makes a left bend. Pass "Grünbauer Gedenkwand" and try to stay on the path for 120meter. "Untere Dohlenwand" is to your left. Go ahead the path for 80 meter and turn left into the forest road. Follow that path to the end for 80 meter. It ends at "Obere Dohlenwand".