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Climbing at this crag is actually possible whole year round.
"Jubiläumswand", "Morgenleite" and "Schottersmühler Wand" can get some sun light in the after noon. In summer time the leaves on the trees keep the sectors shady and it won't get too hot. Only "Schottersmühler Wand" is that exposed above the trees so it might get too hot in summertime.
The sectors opposite the river (Riesenburg, Grünbauer and Dohlenwand) are shady and good for spring and autumn. Only one "Altherrenwand" is facing south up here. "Riesenburg" is in the big cave so you might find good condition even in summertime.
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"Riesenburg" offers a few steeper routes which should stay dry in heavy rain. Also the overhanging routes at "Obere Dohlenwand" stay dry but can soak after long period rain.
If everything is flooded the best chances to find dry rock after a few hours is "Schottersmühler Wand" or teh left part of "Morgenleite"
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The surface of the rock gets rougher here and the structures offer a big amount of easier routes with interesting full varied climbing not only focused on classic chimneys. Due to the good protection it can get quite busy at this crag.
Furthermore there are a lot of advanced level climbing at "Dohlenwand" or "Grünbauer Gedenkwand" or "Galawand" and "Morgenleite" at the opposite river side. The hardest routes are at "Galawand" and "Riesenburg", while the easiest routes are at "Jubiläumswand".
Beside well protected sport climbing routes in big range of grades you can get a lot of mental traditional routes
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The most perfect spot for children is at "Schottersmühler Wand". The access is a gravel road and the base of the sector is quite flat. Just watch for falling rocks! All sectors at the eastern side of the river are still ok with kids, but "Jubiläumswand". Here you have to carry your kid/s as long as they don't walk. The base itself offers a few comfortable spots for picnic and stuff.
All sectors at the western riverside are unsuitable for kids.
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Straight at the parking there's a big lawn at the river where you can have nice picnic as long as the gras is mowed. Please stay on trails if it's not. Easy access to the river is possible, as well, for a quick cool down. Underneath the big lime is a spring with delicious cold water.
Accommodation you'll find in Waischenfeld. Restaurants are in Waischenfeld up north or in Behringersmühle/Gößweinstein down south the river. Hopefully the mill Schottersmühle opens again after corona-lockdown so you'll have a good beer garden close by.
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Swimming pool are located in Waischenfeld and Gößweinstein.
💎 Goodies
Soft:
- Go, Heini Go
- Abendweg
- P. und M. Weg
- Jubiläumsweg rechts
- Nico
- A.L. Weg
Medium:
- Geiersturzflug
- Picolla Stupidezza
- Seven
Hard:
- Napoleon Fritz
- 40 Sekunden Cowntdown
- Dickes B.
- Hinterm Horizont geht's weiter
Extreme:
- Rockabilly
- Härte 10