📍UTBY
🧗♂️ ‘’The original bouldering area in Gothenburg’’.
Utby is one of the biggest and oldest bouldering areas in Gothenburg and consists of three different areas: Gärdsås, Fjällbo and Utby itself. The easy accessibility of this area makes it very attractive for both climbers and ”normal” people who like to go for a walk in the area. The environment is of great natural beauty. Here you’ll find many good boulders of all highs, angles and levels.
Utby is known for its peculiar buds on the rocks. The climbing style varies from delicate slabs, which will test your foot confidence and mental strength, to powerful 90-degree overhangs that require heel skill, body tension and finger strength. The rock is relatively friction dependent, meaning that you might cruise a climb in the winter, whilst having a tough time during the summer, especially the skin of your fingers.
Most of the boulders in the area are facing south. Some of them are in an open area while others are in the shade from the trees. It follows that some boulders dry fast while others stay wet long after the rain.
Bergsjön is a lake close to the area and offers the possibility of a refreshing bath in the summer
💎 Classics:
GÄRDSÅS NORTH:
▪️Åttabollen - 7A
▪️Daghemmet pissmyran - 5
GÄRDSÅS SOUTH
▪️Stigsprickan - 3
▪️Flyttstress ss - 7A
▪️Sockerbiten - 6C
▪️Blind Spot - 7B+
▪️Kaleschen - 7C
UTBY - HIDDEN AREA
▪️Trollareten - 6C
▪️Tortoise - 6B
▪️Neglected - 7B+
▪️Secluded - 7A
▪️Forgotten - 6A+
▪️Ludenben - 6B+
UTBY - CENTER
▪️L’Aeromammuth - 6B
▪️La Bousse - 7B
▪️El Maco - 7A+
▪️Ängsareten - 5
▪️Jazzbyxa - 5
▪️Det första taket - 7C
▪️Det Andra taket - 7A
▪️Integrerad Maria - 5+
▪️Salong Hasse - 6A
▪️Voodo
▪️Liten Ilution - 6B+
UTBY - THE FOREST
▪️Grodan - 5+
▪️Le plus mal des mondes - 5+
▪️Prinsen av Egypten - 7A
▪️Dub - 7B+
▪️Jah no dead - 4+
▪️Sting ss - 6C
▪️Griseknoen - 6B
▪️Razors hämnd - 6A
▪️Sauron - 7B
▪️MPFC - 6C+
▪️Unplugged - 7A
UTBY - THE UPPER WALL
▪️The dude - 6C
▪️Gudrun - 6A+
▪️Till Sara - 6C
▪️Är du bergsbestigare? - 7A
▪️La Libresse - 6A+
▪️Freestyle - 7A
▪️Frågvis ålder - 6A+
UTBY - THE OAK SHELF
▪️Jamnsprickan - 4+
FJÄLLBO - HOLLYWOOD
▪️Mellan ekarna - 5+
▪️After Skeleton - 7B
FJÄLLBO
▪️Skotofobi - 7A
▪️Sexifierad - 8A
▪️Slugg - 7A
▪️White Russian - 6C
▪️Le Rectum - 6A
▪️Sprickkrysset - 6A
▪️High voltage - 7C
▪️Klassiker nummer 7 - 5
FJÄLLBO - EAST
▪️Spirit ss - 6C
