Description

Untermaiselstein is a small village at the foot of the Rottachberg, a conglomerate mountain with thousands of boulders and sports climbing routes. All of the climbing described here can be accessed from the hiking trail at the south-western foothills of the Rottachberg that starts at the recycling containers near the main road along the western side of the Rottachberg.

Other areas on the Rottachberg are the Rottach bouldering area, the bouldering and sport climbing areas around Freidorf (Parkplatzwand, NePaPla-Wand, Quellwand), the large sport climbing area Falkenstein, the steep walls around Vorderburg and the smaller sport climbing sectors in the forest, such as Haidt and Papperlapapp. Taken together, these contain easily over 1000 boulders and sport climbs.

Climbing and bouldering here happens on a type of conglomerate rock called Nagelfluh. Climbing on Nagelfluh is characterized by often tiny pebbles and pockets that require strong fingers and lots of control in strenuous positions. This means lines are not always obvious, but there is a plethora of possible climbs and combinations, often with interesting moves that take some figuring out. Hard climbs are often centered around tiny two-finger crimps or bad pinches in steep terrain. Many climbs are "board style", but with smaller holds. Climbing here is therefore perfect training to get strong fingers and shoulders.

*Recommended boulders:*
- Radix, 4+ at Hidden Valley: Great hold shapes.
- Super Dickmanns, 5, Rockland: Fun problem on huge pebbles.
- Süße Wüste, 5+, Hidden Valley: Another one with great rock quality.
- Canale Grande, 6A, Hidden Valley: Obvious line up a black stripe.
- Right Jugger, 6B, Rockland: The classic 6B of the area with hard moves between two huge jugs.
- Kieselwiesel, 6C+, Rockland: Amazing problem on small pebbles.
- Cross, 7A, Rockland: Just one hard move, but it's spectacular.
- 7-up, 7A+, Rockland: Cool technical problem with underclings and a huge hole.
- Hidden Beauty, 7B, Hidden Valley: Beautiful crimpy problem straight through the main wall.
- Flum, 7C+, Maiselwände: Perfect powerful problem with crimps, slopers, underclings and a big pocket.
- Chrystalt, 8A+, Maiselwände: Technical climbing on tiny crimps and pinches.

History

Most of the climbing here - regardless of sector - was developed by Hary Röker between about 2006-2008. Jesuswandl was developed not long after that, starting around 2010, by climbers such as Hary Röker, Christian and Andreas Bindhammer, Maxi Klaus and Michael Gunsilius.

Routes on Untermaiselstein
19 sport 147 boulder 5 Likes
Browse topos
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Premium topo by talyn27
Jonas Schropp
J. Schropp
from Germany
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Untermaiselstein

The area is access sensitive!

1) Special rules at this crag
There are currently reforestation efforts being undertaken at Rockland. Take great care not to step on the young trees and not to disturb the ground in the reforestation area. No big groups, no loud music. Use footpaths where possible. If you can not climb a boulder because there is a small tree under it - especially if the tree has a blue marker - move on to a different problem.

2) How to drive to the crag and parking instructions
From Kempten, exit the B19 at Martinszell. Drive through the village and turn right towards Rottach. Drive through the village until a parking lot right before the intersection towards Freidorf / Untermaiselstein. Pass this parking lot and turn right towards Freidorf/Untermaiselstein 100m later. The parking is to your left, next to the containers.
From Sonthofen, exit the B19 at Immenstadt Ost/Rettenberg/Burgberg. At the roundabout turn left towards Kempten/Rottach. Take the exit to your left towards Freidorf / Untermaiselstein, there is a obvious parking lot on the left next to the containers.
No night parking.

3) How to reach the sectors on foot
Follow the hiking trail along the creek and into the forest.
- For Jesuswandl, follow the foodpath through the field upwards to the visible wall shortly after the little lake on your right.
- For Maiselwände, walk another 200m or so until you are back in the forest. Untere Maiselwand can be seen from the trail.
- For Hidden Valley, climb up to Rechte Obere Maiselwand. Follow the wall all the way to the right, a little bit further and then up and left.
- For Rockland, follow the trail through the forest for another 10 minutes. The trail will make a sharp curve right up the hill. Follow all the way up until you are on even ground again in a bigger open valley. The walls are to your right.