Temple Crag

1. Gardener’s Revenge, 6a+, sport Climb the ledge system to the face. “Balancy” last move requiring friction for your shoes offering almost nothing for your hands. Those grabbing the chain as aid to finish will have their hand chopped off. 12 m, 5 bolts F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi, Dan Hannah, 06/2007

2. Project, Unbolted, sport. Grade to be assessed.

3. Spider Jam, 5c+, sport Follow the arête up to a large ledge. Continue up the crack system. Crux move just a couple of meters above the ledge where the route earned its name. 25m, 8 bolts F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi, Dan Hannah, 06/2007

4. Kwun Yam, F5, sport A 60m abseil from the platform leads to a small ledge with 2 bolt belay, or From the bolts on the edge of the platform, a full 30m abseil to the belay at the top of the first pitch, then another 25m abseil. Knot the end of the rope and have a sling tied to your harness ready to clip the belay bolts. 1st Pitch Up fairly easily to a crux move by the 8th bolt, continue to small stance on left. 26m, 9 bolts 2nd Pitch Move right and continue up the slab above. If you are finding it too difficult, move left. Finish up the flake to the right. 30m , 8 bolts F.A. M. Lancaster 2002

5. Pilgrim F5+, sport A 30m abseil to the bush covered ledge in the centre of the buttress. Start from a 2 bolt belay at right hand end of the ledge. 30m, 7 bolts F.A. M. Lancaster 2002

8. Criminal Offence, 6b+, sport 22 m, 8 bolts. Begin under a small roof that is broken by a crack. After clipping the first bolt move left to a flake. Climb the crack to a large ledge and then climb the slabs to a chain anchor. F.A. Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, 05/2005

9. Judge’s Bribe: HVS 5b, trad A technical, long and straight line. Begin two meters to the left of the bolted route under a small roof. Move to the right and follow the thin crack system up to a ledge. Climb the larger crack directly upwards. 20 m. F.A. Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan, 06/2005

10. Robbery: 6c, sport 1st Pitch, 6b, 20 meters, 7 bolts. Begin near a face with a small corner. From the face, and first bolt, move left on small hand holds to rock over the top of the corner feature. Continue upward over ledges and to the left of a large crack. 2nd Pitch, 5+, 15 meters, 5 bolts, From the anchor near the arête climb directly up the face and continue to an anchor on the left side (looking up) of a large boulder like rock. 3rd Pitch 6c, 9 meters, 3 bolts. Move directly up the left side of the boulder and step into the crack system in the middle boulder. Move up (crux) to take the third bolt and continue to the chain anchor. F.A. Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, 04/2005

11. Barking Deer, HVS 5a trad Begin the route by reaching up into a prominent crack and bulge. Follow the crack system diagonally left until traversing left to a large ledge. Follow the corner up to the top bolted anchor shared with “Robbery”. The bolts to the left of the top part can easily be avoided by using the crack for good protection. F.A. Dan Hannah, Andy Halkyard, 11/2006

12. Tax Evasion, E2 5c trad Begin on the prominent ramp feature beside “Jailbreak”. The first four meters is unprotected slab climbing. At the top of the slab follow the crack up to a small tree. Climb directly up the crack above the tree for an exciting and exposed finish. F.A. Dan Hannah, Andy Halkyard, 11/2006

13. Jailbreak, HVS 5a trad 1st pitch 20 m, HVS 5a. A brilliant crack line over a small roof. From the ground follow a prominent crack and corner up to a block beneath a roof. From the block move left, placing protection in the crack. Using the crack and face features pull up to good holds (crux). Step back right into the large crack. Continue up to the chained anchor of “Robbery” situated close to the arête. 2nd pitch 18 m, HS 4b From the anchor move left around and up the arête. At the ledge move right and up to the chained anchor beneath the right side (looking up) of the boulder. 3rd pitch 12 m, S 4a From the anchor continue up to the right of the boulder and finish at the anchors on top of the boulder.

14. Electric Chair, 6b+ sport 1st pitch 6b+, 18 meters, 5 bolts. Begin under a large roof. Follow the crack up and traverse left on good hand holds to the first bolt at four meters above the ground. From the bolt move left and up. After clipping the second bolt climb straight over the small roof (crux). Follow the line to a large ledge and left to an anchor below a short face. 2nd pitch 6b, 12 meters, 4 bolts. From the large ledge to the left of the large flake/boulder climb up the face to the two bolt anchor at the start of the third pitch of “Robbery”. F.A. Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, 05/2005

Unbolted. 15. Project, Under Large Roof unbolted, Sport,

20. Rock Buffalo, 5+, sport Begin near the arête of the crag. Climb directly up to the slab. Continue over a small roof and up to a large ledge. Climb a short face to the chained anchor shared with the traditional routes to the right. 32 m. 6 bolts. F.A. Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi , 06/2005