Description

Sibräcka was developed during 2011 and became immediately a very popular sport climbing crag and a good alternative to its older and harder neighbour Viks kile. With its nice, well bolted routes and easy walk-in the crag is of interest to all climbers who want to climb middle and easy grades.
Sibräcka prästgård is a small crag with some relatively easy and mostly bolted routes.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crag faces west and gets into the sun in the afternoon. Most of the routes dry pretty fast.
Sibräcka prästgård is facing south/southwest and gets a lot of sun which means that the routes dry quickly.

THE ROUTES
The walls vary between slabs and slightly overhanging. The routes are 10-35 m long. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. There are some very nice, long, easy and bolted routes here.
The routes at Sibräcka prästgård are 8-15 m long and mostly vertical or a bit slabby. All routes but one are bolted and all routes are equipped with lower-offs.

History

Sibräcka’s main crag was developed by Kvibergs climbing club in 2011.
Sibräcka prästgård is the work of local climbing club from Stenungsund. It was mainly developed in 2015.

Routes on Sibräcka
37 sport 1 trad 97 Likes
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Martin Ott
M. Ott
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T. Ratajczak
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Sibräcka

The area is access sensitive!

When parking, remember to leave unobstructed way for local habitants and agricultural machinery.

Do not litter or make unnecessarily loud noises when at the cliff. Making fire is allowed only with a permit!

There are some fences on the track to the crag. Do not destroy or modify these. They are not there to keep you away from the climbing but to keep the bulls which are grazing in the area from running away.

On the way to the crag you are passing a shooting range. Do not pass when th range is used (you cannot miss that, there is shooting going on). At the moment (2020) the range is used n Sundays 5-7 p.m.

There might be nesting birds in the left part of the main crag meaning no climbing before June.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/?s=sibr%C3%A4ck.

🚗
From Göteborg, take motorway E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 90, Stora Högamotet (signs for Tjörn/Orust/Stenungsund), follow road 160 for about 9 km and then turn left onto road 169 at the first traffic light after the big bridge, Tjörnbron. Follow road 169 for about 10 km and turn right towards Sibräcka. Drive for about 2,5 km, turn right (signs for Återvinningsstation) and then keep right towards Brukshundklubb. Park on the big gravelled parking lot (directly to the left of the entrance).
The drive is about 60 km.
🚶‍♀️
From the parking lot go by a burnt house (it’s a training place for local fire brigade) and follow the path and the footbridges.
You should see the first bolts after about 300 m.
Notice that the walk-in passes a shooting range. It is of course not recommended to pass when there are people shooting there (also rather impossible as they are good at closing the path). At the moment (2020) the shooting takes place only on Sundays between 5 and 7 pm.

To get to SIBRÄCKA PRÄSTGÅRD, drive by the road to Sibräcka and continue for about 700 m. Park at the small parking lot on the right side. From here walk along the edge of the meadow till you see the crag on your left side after some 2 minutes.