Few sectors represent modern hard climbing in Catalunya better than the Cova Gran of Santa Linya. Over the last 15 years this huge cave has become one of the most important testing grounds in Europe, attracting the sport’s elite from all over the world. The big, hard routes in the centre of the cave are truly spectacular! Two more, lesser sectors compliment the big cave — Futbolín and Barranc de Fontfreda. Note: climbers are not the only group of enthusiasts attracted to Santa Linya. At roughly the same time as the free climbers arrived, archaeologists began digging in the base of the cave, uncovering important remains of prehistoric settlements. It is a great credit to both parties that a mutually acceptable agreement has been reached, currently allowing climbing to continue for most of the year while giving the archaeologists exclusive access for a short period running from late spring to midsummer. The exact dates vary, but climbers must avail themselves of the latest information and adhere strictly to the prohibitions. It goes without saying that climbers must be on their very best behaviour in Santa Linya: to climb in the cave during the ‘closed’ season or interfere in any way with the protected dig-sites would seriously imperil future access. At the end of the digging season the excavations are carefully covered with tarpaulins and plywood, and protective metal fences are erected around each site. It’s not pretty, but if it means climbing can continue then it’s a price worth paying. Note: fog can be a problem here in December and early January!
General Approach: The crags in this zone are situated close to the tiny village of Santa Linya. From Balaguer, follow the C-12 road north to the village of Les Avellanes (17km). Immediately before entering the village turn right onto the LV-9042 local road and follow this to Santa Linya (5km to reach the village).
Futbolín
Description: Although the rock is less than perfect in places, this is a very popular sector, thanks mainly to the friendliness of the bolting and the profusion of routes in the 6b+/7a range. Those looking for tougher challenges will also find enough to keep them happy for a couple of sunny winter afternoons here. Orientation: southwest — the crag is a suntrap from midday onwards.
Approach: The sector overlooks the old town football pitch, situated just to the left of the LV-9042 between Avellanes and Santa Linya. Park on the pitch (P1) and wander up to the crag (3 minutes).
Cova Gran
Description: Aid climbers tackled this formidable challenge back in the 1990s but it wasn’t until the 21st century that free climbing standards had progressed sufficiently to enable the next wave of development. Today the Cova Gran is home to more than 70 routes, link-ups, and variations, and apart from a few rather scrappy offerings in the less-steep margins the entry level is 7b, with most routes being much, much harder. The cave faces predominantly south (the wings differ slightly) and can be a suntrap during the winter months. From mid-spring to early autumn, when the sun is higher in the sky, the deepest part of the cave actually remains shaded for the greater part of the day. Many of the shorter routes stay dry through the heaviest showers, although seepage may be a problem following prolonged periods of rain. Orientation: between southeast and southwest.
Approach: From the village of Avellanes follow the LV-9042 local road towards Santa Linya. Approximately 900m after the football pitch (the parking area for sector Futbolín) turn right onto a road signposted ‘Cova Gran’ and follow this, passing below the village of Santa Linya, for approximately 1.8km to a large parking area (P2). The cave is still invisible from here but a well-marked trail heading east soon leads to it (10 minutes from P2).
Barranc de Fonfreda
Description: This recently equipped sector lies on the hillside above and right of the Cova Gran. The rock is mostly excellent and the climbing is steep and interesting. Orientation: south.
Approach: From Avellanes follow the LV-9042 road into the village of Santa Linya. At the entrance to the village turn sharp left onto a narrow road (signposted Estació
FGC 6km) and drive up this for 250m to where it skirts the top end of the village and the road becomes an unsurfaced track. Continue driving eastwards along the track for approximately 600m to a Y- junction. Take the right-hand fork and follow this slightly downhill, passing a concrete marker on the right with a number “1” painted on it after 100m. Keep driving past a second concrete marker (this time adorned with a number “2”) and continue for a further 600m to a sharp right-hand bend (1.8km from the Y junction). There is trackside parking for several vehicles just after the bend on the right (P3) but do not block the track! The sector lies on the hillside above the parking area and is approached using a path up the right-hand side of a dry streambed (3 minutes from P3). Note 1: although the track is in good condition, due to the very steep slope below and the lack of protective crash barriers, it requires the utmost of care while driving. It is completely unsuitable for larger motorhomes! Note 2: if the limited parking places below the sector are already used up there is spacious lay-by approximately 950m before reaching P3, from where it will be necessary to proceed on foot. Note 3: turning your vehicle around at P3 can be very tricky, especially if other cars are parked there. It is better to continue driving downhill for several hundred metres to where the track levels out and turning there.
