Routes on Rocky Butte

2 sport 4 trad

We like Rocky Butte

Yes, it's dirty and there's broken stuff and weird people wandering around, but I can bike to and from it from my home in portland, which is a huge plus, and there's so much to climb there; I've hardly done all of it yet
some nice climbs despite setting
Rocky Butte is just a hop, skip and a jump from downtown Portland and even closer to my house. This makes it a very convenient place for me to climb. I can chuck all of my gear in a daypack and bike there in 20 minutes. Unfortunately this also makes it attractive to partying teenagers and bums. Broken glass from beer bottles, condoms and trash are pretty much par for the course here. Last week I was wondering around the forest trails trying to find the schwingus, which is a 12' tall bouldering wall located away from the main walls. We passed a homeless man sleeping in a small cave under a boulder and then found an engine-less car that had been pushed over the edge of a cliff into the forest. Still, there's plenty here to climb. The fortress on the top boasts a 17' tall slab that's great for beginner climbers and also plenty of dihedrals to boulder. There is also a 200' long traverse wall near the top. Sport, and trad routes await along the cliffs near I-205. Most can be top-roped by setting up an anchor along the top of the cliffs. Not all routes have bolted anchors so it might be necessary to use a tree or two. This is a great place to go if you only have a few free hours and need to get your climbing fix.

Activities on this crag