This North-East facing cliff is good for hot summer days. Routes are 9 to 10 meters high, vertical and even slightly overhanging.
Drive along Kustavintie and you'll see Kustavin Talouskauppa general store, café and gas station on your right. Take the next road to left, Iniöntie. Drive for 3.9 kilometres and take left by a white electricity transformer. Follow the unnamed road to the LEFT for one kilometre, it`s forbidden to drive into someones yard, but drive slowly and carefully as the road is in rough condition. Park so that you don't block the road from tractors and other local traffic.
Approach is short and easy. You can see the crag across the field when arriving to the parking. In the hunting season the last stretch of road is often blocked. You can leave your car and walk from here. However be mindfull that there could be hunting going on. Safer to wear bright colors.
For all the First Ascentionists: Topo suggestions with silly eliminations and unnecessary variations will not be approved. Keep it simple and natural please!
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team.
Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
