Punta Pilocca is one of the most remote and magnificent climbing areas in Sardinia, with lots of problems from very easy (4b) to long slabs and hard tufas.
The large crag is divided into four main sectors, starting from the west:
PUNTA PILOCCA: the oldest and most popular sector, it has a variety of lines and grades, welcoming beginners and experienced climbers alike. It features two of the best routes in Sardinia. The first one is Danze Lunari, it is just a 6a+ on an inclined wall, easy game you may think, but give it a try and it will teach you how to use your balance right. The other one is Australia, a superb 6c
ZONA ZTL: this is a short wall, not higher than 12 meters, intended as a beginners' area. It has 5 very easy routes, and then a 6a, 6a+ and a 6b+.
MURO DEI FOLLETTI: this is a mixed wall, with equal numbers of easy and hard routes. Ideal for couples where the skills vary a lot. Impressive some routes on overhanging tufas.
AMANTE STEGATA: The crag L'Amante Stregata was created in 2005 by a group of volunteer members of the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) from Cagliari. It includes 4 small sectors. From the left, they were named "Saranno Famosi", with a walk-through cave, "Cinecittà" with a 40 metres high wall, "C'era una volta" for beginners and children, and "La Cantina" with the hardest routes.
