Climbing in Sardinia: Richard Felderer introduces Falco, a new multi-pitch sport climb up foPunta Argennas recently established by Czech climbers Jan Kares and Jaro Ovcacek.
On 11 July 2017, in temperatures at the absolute limit of what is bearable, the Czech climber Jan Kareš and his friend Jaro Ovcacek bolted a new climb up the beautiful East Face of Punta Argennas. Let me add that although this face isn’t all too popular, it currently offers some interesting routes and a remarkable potential!
The new climb is 7 pitches long. called Falco, and provides difficulties up to an (estimated) 7c+ and and obligatory 7a+. The route is well-bolted, with an occasional obligatory hard section. All falls though are short and safe.
I went to takes some photos and realised that the rock, especially on the central pitches, is an absolutely superb solid limestone with the occasional tufas through the overhangs .The route is vertical or slightly overhanging, the difficulties are continuous and the belays comfortable.
Jan returned the day after the first ascent and attempted to make the first free ascent, but it was simply too hot for the redpoint and he then had to leave, but all the pitches were climbed and those who will repeat the route in due course have a pretty accurate idea about what they’re letting themselves in for.
by Richard Felderer
