East Face
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East Face 1 / 1
  • A great enjoyable route on the middle of the east face, shadow from 1 / 2 PM. The route is mostly on a low-angled wall with a lot of knobs, the harder pitches are more steep and powerful, not so slabby overall. It’s impossible to protect with trad protections, only some slings on knobs are possible, but during opening every time we stopped on gear (hooks or slings) we placed a bolt, and we haven’t done any aid moves. For a repetition you need only quickdrows. FA: Mirco Grasso, Samuele Mazzolini L1: 5b, 4bolts 45m L2: 6b+, 5bolts 35m L3: 5c, 5bolts 55m L4: 6a, 5bolts 50m L5: 6b, 5bolts 30m L6: 6a+, 4bolts 30m L7: 7a, 6bolts 55m L8: 3a, 2bolts 55m L9: 6a+, 5bolts 40m L10: 6a+, 6bolts 55m L11: 6a+, 7bolts 45m L12: 6c, 7bolts 55m L13: I, 30m L14: 5c, 2bolts 45m L15: 6a, 4bolts 55m L16: 6a+ 3bolts 50m L17: 6b 3bolts 55m L18: IV+ 55m L19: IV 50m 100m to the summit
  • This route goes to the south summit, the highest of the mountain. Slabby climbing on generally good rock and mandatory climbing due to the poor protections. Shadow from 3PM but usually very windy because the route follows a corner. The name “Mystery of Phandambiri” comes from the mystery behind probably the first ascensionist of the mountain: they found on their way some very old bolts (around 40 years old), in places with no climbing logic and not even until the top of the mountain. It should be a story of old mozambique civil war, but nobody knows anything about it. 1100m, max 6c