Oysterhead
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Oysterhead 1 / 2
  • Needs a dry spell, start in the corner then traverse left to right along the (very!) thin upper break.
  • Low-water problem! Mantle the low, cool balancy move.
  • Great moves across the very low good holds before cranking up to the top via jugs. (red stripes) Can be extended a further 6m to the right (keeping low) and ending with a double catch from good holds after the little pink roof.
  • Start on the large hold
  • Cross with RH over to the sloper instead of slapping the jug, big move to the crimp high on the wall (prob.1) and top out to the right. 1c 7A(+)* Bitch Slap (Height dependent) Start on large hold and make a massive move for the good sloping edge on the ledge with right hand, left hand small crimp up high and so to the top.
  • Begin with crossed hands on the lowest 2 holds
  • A tough eliminate! Start in the slots (jug is out), Crimp like a demon on the slopey crimp by the long blue arrow and crank to the holds marked with blue, and to the jug.
Oysterhead
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Oysterhead 2 / 2