Description

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The area is on private property and today Casa al sole and Heidi e il contadino sectors are CLOSED. The only climbable sectors are Pilastro nascosto on the right and Grotta and Relax on the left.

Winter is coming and you are waiting for nothing more than climbing in the sun? This topo shows one of the best winter crags of Arco, which is also one of the biggest crag in the area of Rovereto, Noriglio!
The crag counts 68 routes that serve good the climbers that are comfortable with the sixth and 7a grades. Crimpers and small pockets rule on the long and vertical walls of Noriglio, except for sector Grotta, having a nice cave with more demanding lines on some tufas and artificial holds.
The crag base is good and the approach is easy. Since the crag is quite old, you may find aged equipment on some routes, but nothing particularly dangerous. Other lines have been re-bolted.
Some central sectors were dismantled few years ago and cannot be accessed, as they are located on private fields.

The completely South exposure of Noriglio turns the crag into a natural oven during Summer. We highly recommend you to come during Winter or cold days of the mid-seasons to better appreciate its beautiful lines. From the top of the walls you will enjoy a nice landscape over Rovereto. Moreover, Noriglio is very close to Folgaria, known winter skiing destination, so there is an easy and good alternative activity to recover the skin of your fingers.

History

Noriglio is an historic crag that years ago boasted over 120 routes. Unfortunately, some of the central sectors have recently been closed due to the fact that they were on private fields. We hope that the municipality of Rovereto can do something to allow the climb on these beautiful walls again.
The crag was developed thanks to the effort of many local climbers: M. Fait, G. Gerola, A. Masera, D. Cabas, S. Martini, A. Bescapè, S. Matassoni, G. Silvestri, G. Scrinzi and many others.

Noriglio

Climbing has been limited!

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The area is on private property and today Casa al sole and Heidi e il contadino sectors are CLOSED. The only climbable sectors are Pilastro nascosto on the right and Grotta and Relax on the left.

Arrival:
Coming from Arco or Trento, head to Rovereto and reach the large roundabout in front of the train station. At the roundabout take the city center exit (the first on the right coming from Arco or the last on the left from Trento) and follow the road till you get to another small roundabout. Go straight on in the narrow road and following the indications to Terragnolo / Serrada. Drive on the main road and reach the village of Noriglio. After 220 meters you will find a gas station on the right side of the road, keep driving for other 140 meters and turn right into the narrow uphill road (Via Campolongo). Just follow this road for 150 meters, go straight at the crossroad and you will get to the car park.

Sectors:
From the car park, come back for 30 meters and take the road on the right. Walk till you get to a green house with a large painting on it. An evident and large path starts here (see in the pictures). After about 200 meters walking there is a junction. Keep the right to reach “Heidi e il contadino” and “Pilastro nascosto” sectors (50 meters), while go left to approach “Grotta” and “Relax” ones. The path to these last sectors is 450 meters long, quite evident and goes along private fields. Please be careful not to mess with these properties.