The tiny cliff known as Myllyvuori is the third climbing destination in the cosy Salminiittu village. In summer 2019, Perttu Ollila finally considered the crag as worth for establishing some climbing routes. There were put up only 5 routes, none of them even especially challenging, but 9-meter high dihedral "Mylläri" nevertheless belongs to a tick list of every Kustavi specialist. The speciality in the cliff is the environmental work of art by Marja Haapakangas, located at the right side of the face. Let it stay there untouched, along with the moss. From the top of the three-peak Myllyvuori you can walk to northwest along the easy-terrain rock ridge. On the way there you can spot a 40-centimeter giant's kettle, with it's lid just next to it.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/myllyvuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
