Stora stenen (M)
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Stora stenen (M) 1 / 8
  • Sitstart with both hands on the first big hold in the beginning of the roof (obvious start)
  • (8B+ or 8C) Start at the very bottom of the hole with RH sidepull crimp and LH lower pinch. Continue into Skuggan av Eden but turn of right towards nirvana following the sloper list, from there go into a two-fingerjam in the large jug/crack and finish right up next to nirvana. SECTIONS: ~7C+ into skuggan, with lots of compression, slopers and pinches and an easier section going up. ~7C with Skuggan before turning away right ~8A+ ending after leaving Skuggan with hard toe hooks, almost free hanging two-fingerjam and brutal ending crimp. 'Whole boulder is about 30 moves total, not counting all the small feet adjustments necessary
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Stora stenen (M) 2 / 8
  • The "high" sit start at the end of the roof. Top out on the left side of the block.
  • Sitstart with both hands on the first big hold in the beginning of the roof (obvious start)
  • Start as Nirvana, but go straight up from the crimps by using a bad pinch and small crimps. Top out to the left as Nirvana.
  • Start on a big undercling under the roof. Easiest way to the top.
  • Standing start with defined holds: Left hand on dish-like undercling. Right hand decent/good crimp. (Efter att stora juggen föll av så blev det rätt annorlunda beta, går fortfarande rakt upp, men nu via liten krimp utåt höger från starten)
  • Starta i Nya Mumana Sittstart. Klättra vänster genom taket och avsluta med Nirvana.
  • Start in Shangri-La and finish in Mumana. Joins Mumana in the big hold. It is a variant. However, it's one of the most obvious lines on the block.
  • Sitstart. Climb the arete on big holds. Morpho, harder for the short.
  • (8B+ or 8C) Start at the very bottom of the hole with RH sidepull crimp and LH lower pinch. Continue into Skuggan av Eden but turn of right towards nirvana following the sloper list, from there go into a two-fingerjam in the large jug/crack and finish right up next to nirvana. SECTIONS: ~7C+ into skuggan, with lots of compression, slopers and pinches and an easier section going up. ~7C with Skuggan before turning away right ~8A+ ending after leaving Skuggan with hard toe hooks, almost free hanging two-fingerjam and brutal ending crimp. 'Whole boulder is about 30 moves total, not counting all the small feet adjustments necessary
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Stora stenen (M) 6 / 8
  • Sitstart. Climb the arete on big holds. Morpho, harder for the short.
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There are 3 routes that have not yet been drawn on a topo image. See full list of routes from Stora stenen (M) .