Mont-ral is a fine, historic zone set in a beautiful location. The cliffs are not continuous but rather split into a number of distinct features — pinnacles, buttresses and gully-walls — each with its own orientation and character. Because of this it is nearly always possible to find peace and seclusion, even when the zone is relatively busy. The rough, well-featured limestone offers an abundance of edges and pockets (though some of the easier routes are now becoming rather polished) and with the angle of the rock rarely being steeper than a few degrees beyond vertical, the zone will appeal mostly to climbers operating between grades V and 7b.
General Approach: from the town of Alcover follow the winding TV-7041 up into the Muntanyes de Prades. After 11.5km turn left onto the TV-7045. The village (and Refugi) of Mont-ral are accessed by a narrow road turning right 1km after the junction. For the main climbing areas continue along the TV-7045 for a further 250m before turning left onto a road signposted Carrer Ample. After 300m turn right onto an unsurfaced track and follow this across a disused football pitch to park on its far side (P1).
Sectors:
Terranegra
Description:
A popular little sector set amongst trees, which provide shade on hot days. Some routes are very polished. Orientation: southeast — sun until early afternoon.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards to reach the right-hand side of the sector (10 minutes).
L’Arrepenjada & Esperó No
Description:
These two sectors offer excellent climbing on good grey rock. Orientation: L’Arrepenjada has two faces, one east and one west. Esperó No faces south/southeast.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards, passing sector Terranegra. From here descend a slippery chimney to reach the base of L’Arrepenjada, to the left, and Esperó No, to the right (12 minutes).
Els Gegants per Dins
Description:
This is the back wall of the huge pinnacle. The rock is good but sometimes smooth, making the climbing feel quite insecure. Orientation: northwest — shade for most of the day.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards, passing sector Terranegra. From here descend a slippery chimney to reach the base of sectors L’Arrepenjada and Esperó No. Continue leftwards (facing in) then enter a gully, which is very well hidden until directly below it, behind the huge detached pinnacle of Els Gegants. The first routes are situated on the left at the base of the gully, while the higher routes are reached using a short Via Ferrata, which gives access to the upper part of the gully (15 minutes).
Paret del Grevol
Description:
This wall lies directly opposite Els Gegants per Dins on the other side of a narrow gully. The climbing is very good but the sector isn’t as popular as it should be, meaning vegetation has grown on some routes. Orientation: southeast, but the proximity of the opposite wall keeps most of the routes permanently shaded.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards, passing sector Terranegra. From here descend a slippery chimney to reach the base of sectors L’Arrepenjada and Esperó No. Continue leftwards (facing in) then enter a gully, which is very well hidden until directly below it, behind the huge detached pinnacle of Els Gegants. The first routes are situated on the right at the base of the gully, while the higher routes are reached using a short Via Ferrata, which gives access to the upper part of the gully (15 minutes).
Els Gegants per Davant
Description:
This is probably the best sector in Mont-ral and gives fantastic steep climbing on perfect rock. Orientation: southeast — sun until early/mid-afternoon.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards, passing sector Terranegra. From here descend a slippery chimney to reach the base of sectors L’Arrepenjada and Esperó No. Keep following the path downhill for approximately 30m more to reach the sector (15 minutes).
El Riu
Description:
A good sector with some very nice 6th grade climbs. Orientation: southeast — sun until early/mid-afternoon.
Approach:
from the bottom left-hand corner of the football field (P1) follow a well-marked footpath leading leftwards for approximately 150m then veering right and descending into a dry streambed. The path continues down and rightwards, passing sector Terranegra. From here descend a slippery chimney to reach the base of sectors L’Arrepenjada and Esperó No. Keep following the path downhill to the base of sector Els Gegants per Davant. From here follow a path downhill for 10m then turn right and continue along the path, which crosses the hillside, descending slightly, to reach the base of the right-hand side of the sector (20 minutes).
Totxo Tatxa & Sector Tania
Description:
these two small sectors are situated on a terrace above the main cliffs. Sector Tania, is very popular with novice climbers. Orientation: southeast — sun until early/mid-afternoon.
Approach:
Immediately below P1 there is a large signpost reading Pou de Gel de Mas de Musté and L’Aixàviga marking the beginning of a forestry track heading west. Next to the signpost a small trail branches off to the left. After 20m there is another junction: take the left fork (indicated by a wooden sign for Sector Tania). Follow the path downhill for approximately 200m to where it reaches the terrace then continue leftwards for a further 50m to reach the sector (5 minutes).
El Terrari
Description:
A small sector featuring bouldery routes on perfect rock. Orientation: south — sun for most of the day.
Approach:
Immediately below P1 there is a large signpost for Pou de Gel de Mas de
Musté and L’Aixàviga marking the beginning of a forestry track heading west. Follow this for approximately 350m then turn left onto a major path (red signpost indicating Ruta de La Glorieta/Bassa de la Central...). Follow this downhill for some 300m passing more red Ruta de La Glorieta signposts to reach a wooden gateway crossing the path. El Terrari is situated 20m further on, just to the left of the path (10 minutes from P1).
La Cova del Soldat
Description:
a small sector featuring a cave with bouldery routes on perfect rock. Orientation: southeast — sun until early/mid-afternoon.
Approach:
Immediately below P1 there is a large signpost for Pou de Gel de Mas de
Musté and L’Aixàviga marking the beginning of a forestry track heading west. Follow this for approximately 350m then turn left onto a major path (red signpost indicating Ruta de La Glorieta/Bassa de la Central...). Follow this downhill for some 300m passing more red Ruta de La Glorieta signposts to reach a wooden gateway crossing the path. Continue along the path for 90m (passing sector El Terrari) to reach the cave (11 minutes from P1).
L’Escenari
Description:
A nice sector with an impressive 20m high wall hosting a trio of excellent 7th grade routes. Orientation: southwest — sun after mid-day.
Approach:
Immediately below P1 there is a large signpost for Pou de Gel de Mas de
Musté and L’Aixàviga marking the beginning of a forestry track heading west. Follow this for approximately 350m then turn left onto a major path (red signpost indicating Ruta de La Glorieta/Bassa de la Central...). Follow this downhill for some 300m passing more red Ruta de La Glorieta signposts to reach a wooden gateway crossing the path. Continue along the path for 150m (passing sectors El Terrari and La Cova del Soldat) to reach the sector (12 minutes from P1).
Lo Maset de Paisan
Description:
this group of sectors is not as popular as the main cliff but offers great climbing on perfect quality rock. It is also home to one of the best 7c+ routes in the whole area — Trinxalaire. Orientation: south — sun for most of the day.
Approach:
approaching from Alcover on the TV-7041, turn left 200m before the junction with the TV-7045. After 30m turn left again onto Carrer del Julivert and then almost immediately left again onto an unsurfaced track, which is followed for approximately 200m to a small parking area (P2) where it fades out. From the valley side of the parking area a well-marked path leads through the forest then downhill, first rightwards then back left, to reach sector L’Androna (15 minutes). Sectors Can Tonada and Can Sansi are situated about 100m to the right.
