The Kozjak Mountain above the Kaštel Bay attracts attention of every traveller and visitor with its long rock face. For climbers, the most interesting part of Kozjak is a rock located in its far eastern part. Overarching the legendary medieval fortress of Klis, Markezina greda attracts one’s attention with its steep south-eastern wall.
There is a great potential for developing new long and short sports routes. Big semi-caverns at the bottom of the rock offer many possibilities for developing quite difficult routes as well.
Note: Climbing site is systematically being maintained and equipped by members of SPK Marulianus from Split. Regarding weather conditions, climbing is impossible during winter due to very strong winds. The best climbing conditions are during spring and autumn, while in the summer, climbing site is in the shade after 2 PM. After strong rainfalls, certain time is required for the climbing site to dry out. The rock face inclination varies from vertical to very overhanging. Routes are very hard, especially for on-sight climbing. Bouldering details are common and overall grading standard is tough.
Recommendation: If you are bouldering enthusiast, very good bouldering area is situated in neighbouring Kaštel Sućurac.
⛺Accommodation: Camps near Split and Trogir. Tourist info: Tourist board Klis (021) 240-578, Tourist board Split (021) 348-600; www.marulianus.hr.
Markezina greda has long witnessed a rich history related to the legendary Klis Fortress located at its foot (see more about Klis here).
Climbing history begins with ...
1971, when Božić and Sirišćević climbed Anđin (VI, 120m) - the first route on Markezina greda! The routes that followed were Stipin and Ljubljanski ...
1995. Ivica Matković and Ivica Franceschi are the authors of the route Gogin (7c +, 100m) in the Velika Rupa sector. This route marked a step forward in the previous style of climbing there, given that it is the first to be fully equipped by bolts. The first ascent was performed by Ivica Matković, and the route still has no first repetition!
2000 Daniel Piccini and Goran Radoš bolted the first short sports routes on this spot! SPK Marulianus puts the equipping of the routes on Markezina Greda at the very top of the list of club priorities and climbing activities are becoming everyday!
2003 The mental barrier breaks through - Uroš Perko climbed Geronimo (7c +), Freak power (7c +), Papak (7c +) and Radnička klasa (7c). Vili Guček did Tvrđava Klis, the first 8a on Markezina Greda!
2004. first 8a+ on Markezina Greda - Ivan Lisica climbs Keep on rockin in the free world.
2007. first 8b on the spot - Ivan Lisica climbed Priča za laku noć.
In 2009, the first 8b+ was climbed on Markezina Greda - Ivan Lisica climbs the route Dan velikog trenja.
In 2014, there are more and more events on Greda and more and more people visit this climbing temple. Slovenian climber, Klemen Bečan, climbed a beautiful project of 45 meters on sight, Full Contact 8a+, and it is also the most difficult on sight there.
In recent years lot of new activity was seen on Markezina Greda. In 2018 also Adam Ondra visited the crag and put the level of standard even further. He was climbed first 8c+ of the crag (El Toro) and even harder Dioklecijan( 8c+/9a) which is at the moment the hardest route there.
