Margheddie

🧗‍♀️⛰ Margheddie is the name of a wide area located above the cliffs of Biddiriscottai. There are 9 climbing sectors spread along the panoramic road. They all face East, thus exposed to the morning sun, and mostly high-leaning slabs, with the exception of El Chorro.

The best sectors for beginners are "Sardi di cuore" (in the shade from 3 pm) and "Ninna Nanna" (no shade, winter crag).

The climbing sector El Chorro is one for overhang and tufa lovers. Some warming-up routes on the right side (6b and 6c) shall prepare your muscles for the real deal. On the left side of the wall 5 wonderfully vertical routes continue your preparation, to approach finally the majestic central wall. From La Lavandaia (6c) to El Chorro (7c) and Rosa Libidinosa (8a) there’s a large number of terrific routes that will drain your energies but fill your heart. Add that to the fact that El Chorro is located on the coast, with a wide view above the Gulf of Orosei and you will agree it deserved driving from anywhere you may come from.

The climbing sectors in Margheddie were created by various climbers during two decades. The most recent sector is Sardi di Cuore, created by alipine guide Louis Piguet. It is thought and bolted for beginners, with easy routes and short distance bolts.

El Chorro lies on the opposite side of the spectrum... Sardinian climbers can guess it at first try. When you see an overhanging sector with tufa like these, it is the work of Enzo Lecis. Enzo is the author of many sectors in the area of Cala Gonone and all over Sardinia. Most of his sectors were ignored by old style climbers, who searched for vertical slabs and probably feared these strength demanding overhangs. The name El Chorro was dedicated to the renowned Spanish sector where Enzo left part of his soul.